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PostPosted: Sat Nov 18, 2017 12:36 am 
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Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2012 4:54 pm
Posts: 95
Sorry to go back in time but with regards to the arp lube and torque numbers: If their recommendations are incorrect, by how much do you need tocompensate the torque requjrement? Oh and +1 for factory gear first, look forward to the results.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 19, 2017 2:48 pm 
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QuickXB, just following the torque spec that comes in the instructions with the bolt/stud kit, and use the ARP lube that comes with the kit.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 19, 2017 2:49 pm 
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Got the factory style water pump and timing cover on and Milodon sent me a brand spankin' new oil pan, no charge, no shipping, no anything.

Heads are at the head porter's shop and my "new" D1ZX-FA intake is on the way. 8-)

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 19, 2017 5:31 pm 
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Be awesome to see the results!


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 08, 2018 1:26 pm 
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Thought I would make one last post to this thread....

The Little Engine That Could was sold to Brian Gilchrist (bub351c). It's going in a Fox body Mustang that he recently bought back.....he had owned it when he was in high school. :)

It's going to a good home.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 08, 2018 5:07 pm 
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Gday Brent,
Thats the go! Did you dyno it again after the head porting?
I was looking forward to the next chapter☺
Cheers


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 08, 2018 5:47 pm 
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Didn’t have the heads ported, just reassembled and bolted it all back together with a Fox body style oil pan and a Torker intake.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 08, 2018 6:10 pm 
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Cool mate!
Will be a good thing for him!
Cheers ☺


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 31, 2018 11:53 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 30, 2018 12:09 pm
Posts: 8
Apologies for bringing a dead post back to life, I found the idea of chamfering the mains an interesting one and had some calculations run to vet out the idea. The results were essentially spot on to what was recommended. For a 1/2 inch ARP fastener made from 8740 steel, 5mm is roughly the right radius out to remove material.

Two observations to take this subject further from a stress analysis perspective, a radii cut rather than a flat chamfer is far superior for eliminating stress risers in the mains and would further assist in uniform load distribution. Second, a 1-2 mm radii cut on the block side (essentially the width of the threads) will eliminate stress risers in the block that result from the abrupt surface transition of the threads to the flat block surface.

With no Chamfer or Radius work at all, it's a miracle that cap walk isn't a bigger problem than it is.

Respectfully, Riley


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 31, 2018 12:33 pm 
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Thanks for joining, Riley!

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