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PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2017 7:52 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 31, 2012 4:57 am
Posts: 161
Gday Brent,
All good, was just wondering whether you were using studs or bolts and what lube and tension.
I dont build engines for a living, except ugly big diesels!☺
But i will tell you if you have this wrong they will walk☺
Detonation as well doesnt help.
If you have a look at the picture of that cap what do you see directly around the bolt hole?
Most people with these things run them for years with stock bolts and no cap walk, go to studs and cant control it,
Why do you think that is?
Cheers
Paul


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2017 8:04 pm 
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Used ARP studs, torqued at 110 lb-ft with ARP moly lube.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 27, 2017 8:51 pm 
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Gday Brent,
110 lbs is correct, you may allready know but some won't.
If you are using the new style arp moly lube ( last few years new) you will not get the same stretch as the old syle grey shit from years ago.
The instructions don't reflect the new lube.
Do an experiment with the old stuff if you can still find some on a rod bolt and measure stretch, you will soon see whats going on.
Fyi the spec of 130lbs with engine oil will give you the same stretch as the old moly lube on head and main studs.
I bought the last of what was available of the old lube.
When you look at your cap you will notice the shiny mark around the hole.
What is happening is as the stud is tightened it is pulling the metal around the stud up and into the cap, it then can pivot or walk around this point.
By putting a decent chamfer in the cap the block around the cap pulls up into the chamfer and the rest of the cap / block junction is nice and flat.
Makes a huge difference to these with cap walk.
Just trying to help from what ive learned
And put it on methanol with the comp you have!☺
Cheers


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 28, 2017 4:35 am 
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Yep, knew about the lube change.

Thanks for the tip about the hole chamfer. I'll do it before it goes back together.

Much obliged, mate.

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 28, 2017 5:37 pm 
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Gday Brent,
Love seeing these std stroke deals!☺
Cheers


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 29, 2017 7:46 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2012 10:25 pm
Posts: 84
Location: Stranded in Iowa - Better get the Breakdown squad out
blykins wrote:
The main caps look like they have been moving though. :( I don't know how much more the block can take, so I'm going to think about my options.


Main girdle?

K


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 29, 2017 10:01 am 
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I like main girdles, to me they work. Lots don't like them.

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 29, 2017 10:12 am 
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Not a main girdle fan.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 30, 2017 12:23 pm 
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Location: Stranded in Iowa - Better get the Breakdown squad out
blykins wrote:
Not a main girdle fan.


They don't get ya much but they do get you something. If you are just beginning to see signs of movement and you are approaching your HP target, you may not need much. What don't you like about them?

Best,
Kelly


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 30, 2017 12:29 pm 
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I'm gonna try Paul's tip on countersinking the holes in the main caps. That argument makes the most sense to me.

After having seen multiple 302/5.0 blocks that had been scattered at the 400-450 hp level, with the main caps held neatly together by the girdle (but had been separated from the block), I don't have any confidence in them.

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