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PostPosted: Fri Nov 24, 2017 8:38 am 
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Posts: 37
blykins wrote:
The factory multi-groove stems have a very bad reputation for breaking. New Ferreas are cheap enough that it would be a strength benefit and a flow benefit for you.

A Dremel doesn't have the power to really carve on cast iron. You need an air or electric die grinder.


Brent, does anyone offer mere steel single groove valves for a C?

Just wondering if this a better (i.e. cheaper) alternative for our poster.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 24, 2017 12:44 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2017 9:12 pm
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Location: Nampa, Id
I picked up a complete set of Promaster S/S single groove valves for a killer price, and will replace the whole set. Also got a die grinder from HF to clean up the sharp edges and bumps in the head.

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Mike - Nampa, Id., via Reno/Sparks, Nv, Lawrenceville, Ga., Albuquerque, NM, and Terre Haute, In
31 Model A coupe w/ 351C- 4V & FMX
69 Triumph TR6 w/ 289 W & C4.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 12:10 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2017 9:12 pm
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Location: Nampa, Id
UPDATE: (NEW PROBLEM) Got things back together finally and fired up yesterday. PROBLEM: It smokes. Literally within a few seconds of starting, whitish smoke. Not super thick, but constant. Even with the garage door open, had to shut it down within a few minutes as it filled the garage. To recap: did pretty much an "in-frame" rebuild. Dropped pan, pulled heads, pistons. etc., honed cylinders, installed new Hastings moly rings (only lightly oiling the cylinder walls). Heads were cleaned up (with a little bump grinding) 16 new stainless steel valves and new silicon valve seals. Valve guides were not touched, as the engine really only had a couple thousand miles on it since the heads were last done by the machine shop that did the screw in studs (but that was back in the 80's). I bought lapping compound and just lapped the valves/seats when installing the new valves.
I had replaced the floats and needle valves in the Holley 3310 a few months back to solve a leaking problem, so before I fired it up, I let the electric fuel pump fill the carb to be sure the problem didn't come back after sitting again. No leaks or dripping before or after firing up. Pulled the plugs afterward, and my old Hawk compression tester showed 150-170 lbs. Plugs were a little black going in, and didn't look much different afterwards. I will get new plugs and try to get a more accurate reading, but for now looking for ideas on how best to analyze this.

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Mike - Nampa, Id., via Reno/Sparks, Nv, Lawrenceville, Ga., Albuquerque, NM, and Terre Haute, In
31 Model A coupe w/ 351C- 4V & FMX
69 Triumph TR6 w/ 289 W & C4.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 12:38 pm 
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White smoke is coolant.

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Brent Lykins, Lykins Motorsports
www.lykinsmotorsports.com
brent@lykinsmotorsports.com


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 1:19 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2017 9:12 pm
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Location: Nampa, Id
Well, I'm color blind, so it was probably bluish. There's no water in oil nor oil in coolant. It wasn't running long enough to even get hot to blow head gasket. I'm 99% sure it's not coolant related.

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Mike - Nampa, Id., via Reno/Sparks, Nv, Lawrenceville, Ga., Albuquerque, NM, and Terre Haute, In
31 Model A coupe w/ 351C- 4V & FMX
69 Triumph TR6 w/ 289 W & C4.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 1:44 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2012 9:05 am
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If it's blue, then it could be an intake manifold gasket that's sucking oil.

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Brent Lykins, Lykins Motorsports
www.lykinsmotorsports.com
brent@lykinsmotorsports.com


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 2:06 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2012 1:52 pm
Posts: 489
Are you sure it doesn't just have some residue inside of the exhaust system from a previous mishap? It can take a LONG time and make a LOT of smoke to cook a load of old dried up or wet coolant out of a muffler. I had a set on the dyno that were like that just recently. One had coolant get inside from a cracked cylinder wall. I probably ran the engine at moderate load for 20 minutes and did three or four pulls before it quit smoking from that muffler.

I had another one once where I built an engine for a customer who installed it himself and then called me to help him figure out why he couldn't make it stay running and because it smoked really bad. It turns out that he had a tank of gas that was about 50% diesel fuel. When we got some fresh gas to the engine it made an incredible amount of smoke before it finally cleared up. So much smoke that you couldn't see the light fixtures in the garage. It was mostly white looking too.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 2:22 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2017 9:12 pm
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Location: Nampa, Id
Brent:
The intake manifold seemed to go on with no problems. Where would it be sucking oil from? The lifter galley ?

Dave:
There WAS oil on the outside of the headers that I expected to smoke as it burned off, but I guess there could have been some inside as well. (My son noticed the outside smoke). It was the quickness of the smoke that got me: it didn't seem like enough time to start cooking old oil.

I had felt that old gas had contributed to the smoking in the past. The old tank was HEAVY with crud and was tossed, and a new tank was installed, as well as new gas, and flushing the lines and rebuilding the Holley elect fuel pump and new filters.

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Mike - Nampa, Id., via Reno/Sparks, Nv, Lawrenceville, Ga., Albuquerque, NM, and Terre Haute, In
31 Model A coupe w/ 351C- 4V & FMX
69 Triumph TR6 w/ 289 W & C4.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 2:27 pm 
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Posts: 2416
Yes, lifter valley. If there's a gasket breach there, it will suck oil splashed up from the lifter valley/

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Brent Lykins, Lykins Motorsports
www.lykinsmotorsports.com
brent@lykinsmotorsports.com


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2018 6:50 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2012 8:53 pm
Posts: 51
Was it cold and damp outside when you started the engine. Could be just condensation? If so try again when warmer and dry out.

Rod


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