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PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2018 11:16 am 
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Posts: 13
OK guys I have accumulated a lot of Cleveland parts. I need help on what build will be best for a daily driven car with A/C. Below are pistons and heads available for build. The common part to each build is the Comp Cam hydraulic roller with advertised duration of 275/281, @ .050 duration of 224/230, 110 lobe separation, and valve life of 569/578 with 1.73 rockers. Pistons: new TRW L2408 (open chamber dome), new 555CP Hypereutectic (flat top), and new Sealed Power cast .080 dish piston. Heads: DOAE (closed chamber), D3ZE (open chamber/small valve), D1ZE (open chamber) with Crane stud conversion with intake stuffers, D1ZE (open chamber) machined for 7/16 studs and MPG intake stuffers.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2018 3:01 am 
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Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2012 10:23 am
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Location: Texas
Hi Matt here.
I would say be careful with those lift numbers on the cam you have in relation to the Crane rocker conversion. I bought this kit back in 2004 for my Aussie 2v heads. Works great but it does have its limitations. The specs i remember when i bought it was your not suppose to go over .550 lift. First cam i had was a hydro flat with 290/290 with .505 .505 lifts. No problems. The cam i then put in it is a Comp 282s. Solid flat 282/282 .570/.570 lift. I was worried because the lift was higher. Well i ran it and it still runs great. I all my roller rockers are dead center the valve tips. I think i got away with the lift was 1) because the valve lash lowers the lift and 2) this cam doesnt require the higher valve spring that your hydro roller cam might have to have. Remember, your still screwing a 5/16 stud in the head which turns to a 7/16 for the rockers. There will/can be some flexing at this point.
I went against the rules with this engine though. Its .060 over with cast flat tops, has the crane kit with to big of cam and i spun it to 6400 all the time with a stock balancer. Its a fun motor though.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2018 9:29 am 
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Having run the conversion, I agree with nova. I would sub in one pair of solid rollers and check your clearances closely - not only piston/valve but spring retainer to seal and rocker travel, slide bushing that carries the pushrod, etc. IIRC you can't run 3/8 pushrods with the kit, so you'd want to use quality pushrods to handle the spring pressure. Also, the rocker stud uses a very small 5/16 thread on the bottom so big lift/lota spring will really stress that part.

Double check piston to valve because if you tag a hyper with a valve the piston can shatter. I've even put forged units in a 2.3L daily driver Mustang because I hate cast so much. The 2.3s like to crack cast piston skirts.

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http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod
"Owner built, owner abused."


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2018 12:02 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 29, 2016 12:53 pm
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Good recommendation. I have two sets of heads, D0AE & D1ZE, that have been milled and machined for 7/16” studs. I also have a set of Harland Sharp, Ford Motorsport, and Comp Cam 1.73 roller rockers available.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2018 2:07 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 29, 2016 12:53 pm
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I am leaning toward using the D0AE closed chamber heads and 425NP dish pistons. I think the combination should be good for 9:1 compression or a little better. I know the pistons are not the optimum selection for performance.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 08, 2018 7:03 am 
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Location: Orange County, NC
Personally, I would take those MPG plates and hang them on the garage wall and leave them there. I've tried the flat ones, and they were absolutely worthless.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2018 4:58 pm 
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>and MPG intake stuffers.

Missed that part. Yes, what KV says. They are better called separator plates - separate you from your money.

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Chris - Merkel, TX
http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod
"Owner built, owner abused."


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