www.the351cforum.com

What a glorious sound!!. We definitely need to talk

Noted. I will, Thank you!!!

jacek

Thank you- camera sucked for audio though. That was the old engine. It sounded good and ran decent. I live in Texas and I could never keep that .060 engine cool. At the time my budget was alot less than now days. So you want to build a street car. Maybe I missed it but what transmission are you looking to put in it? Gears? These will also dictate what kind of street manners cam will be good for you

-Matt

The notes on the cam card are about useless. That cam is meant to go into a 351, but how does the manufacturer know if it's a 351, a 393, a 408, or if the engine has factory 2V heads, 4V heads, 3V aftermarket heads, ported heads, etc. That cam would peak much higher with a higher flowing head, or lower with a lower performing head. Lots of variables. The issue with the shelf cams is that they are all universal, down to the notes on the cam card, spring pressures and everything.

_________________
Brent Lykins, Lykins Motorsports
www.lykinsmotorsports.com
brent@lykinsmotorsports.com

Thank you Matt, yes a street car. I have a 73 Firebird with built 400 small block and it ran street so well I made it my daily and put 40000 miles on it driving kids to school. Roller rockers and solid lifters, too. I have a 5sp Richmond in it but I'm not really happy with that- it has short 1st gear and it binds up at high rpm in first so it is hard to shift up. But I definitely want a manual. 4sp OD or 5sp. That would be another recommendation needed.

Oh I thought that cams were designed at least for a specific head type and intake/carburation/exhaust. I undertand the gearing variations will influence the overall performance but since these are down stream from the engine shouldn't they be rather spec'd to the engine build?

A custom cam would be. Shelf cams are universal. They're just sitting on the shelf to be sold.

_________________
Brent Lykins, Lykins Motorsports
www.lykinsmotorsports.com
brent@lykinsmotorsports.com

jacek

Here is the way I see it. First you figure out what you want. In your case you want a street setup. That's half the battle. Then figure out what transmission you want. That will determine how low a rear gear you can get away with if you want to highway cruse. Then figure out the bottom end - do you want big block torque with a stroker, all stock stroke and rods or a little more performance bottom end just in case you decide to upgrade later. Then decide what heads and compression you want. Then decide what cam and induction that will work in a specific rpm range. That's the way I would approach a street build. Im sure others do it in a different order.

-Matt

Much appreciated Matt
What i Have determined so far
I don't have transmission - probably T45 or TR3650 from a new edge mustang. They have a tall 5th OD style gearing for highway cruising. Unless I find something else but one of the two seems best possibility. 8.8" rear end TL 3.25:1
Stock bottom end block and crank. Original 2V heads. Compression about 10:1 . how I get there I'm not sure yet- will find out after I take off the heads and pull out the pistons. If pistons and bores are good I just plan to hone and re-ring them, deck the heads and the intake to match to achieve the 10:1
If pistons and/or bores are shot I'll get domed pistons to get the compression ratio and leave the heads and intake the way they are with standard heads rebuild whatever is necessary.
I'm not sure if how I get to the 10:1 matters but here it is. for induction I plan to use the aluminum edelbrock performer with the double pumper Holley I already have. It does have a 1" spacer if needed if that matters.
This is all I have so far. As for the torque curve I'm not after the low end torque- not big on burnouts and not planning to pull a boat. What it would like is free, powerful revving, maybe a bit lumpy idle to get the HI-PO vibe. What is to me essential for street use is good idle, smooth, easy off idle for take-offs, absolutely no flat spots all the way up.
That's what I got...
It does not really get cold here so cold starts are non issue. But constantly fouled plugs are a no-no, it is frustrating to hear the mis-fire and constant search for that fouled plug...
To be clear, this is not a planned daily driver but more of a local show weekend cruiser.

Sounds like you have some stuff planed out. So what car are you putting this in?