www.the351cforum.com

Thank you for accepting me. I have just scored a 1970 351 2v/fmx drive train. It was pulled out of a wreck long time ago I was told. It spins freely and I'm checking the leak-down on each cylinder to get an idea about the general condition. It looks all original. My plan is a mild performance budget build. Decking the original heads to about 10:1 compression ratio, machining the Edelbrock performer i bought with it, installing the Holley double pumper, hydraulic performance cam, headers. These are the general parts of the plan. Just to give a performance ball park I'm looking for about 350hp with adequate torque. Street use only so it must be "cyvilised" Trying to avoid constant fouled plugs , etc..
am I on the right track? I take any help I can get. This is very exciting!!!

Thanks for joining my forum.

You're on the right track and your goal is very do-able. The first thing I'd do would be to get the block/heads/rotating assembly machined. The machine work is the foundation of any build and if the cylinders are not straight or out of round, the mains are not straight, or the decks are crooked, then the rest of the build will be askew.

You are more than welcome to post photos and progression here in this thread, to be of benefit to everyone else reading along.

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Brent Lykins, Lykins Motorsports
www.lykinsmotorsports.com
brent@lykinsmotorsports.com

Thank you. I completed the leak down test last night. I found two slightly leaking exhaust valves and one intake valve. The pistons and rings seem pretty well sealed. Overall I'm pretty happy about that. Would you recommenD a machine shop in Los Angeles area that specializes in Cleveland engines?

Smack the tops of those valves with a dead blow hammer and see if your leak down improves. Sometimes the valves get some carbon on them where they contact the seat.

I'm not familiar with any shops in LA.

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Brent Lykins, Lykins Motorsports
www.lykinsmotorsports.com
brent@lykinsmotorsports.com

Tapping it helped a bit so now it's time to dis assemble. Should I keep track of location for lifters, pushrods, valves, springs retainers, pistons (orientation?)
I also started looking into off shelf camshafts and a fairly local company (down in San Diego) recommended this one
Part Number: 0314
Grind Number: 270-90H
Intake Duration (gross): 270
Exhaust Duration (gross): 290
Intake Duration (.050”): 214
Exhaust Duration (.050”): 224
Intake Valve Lift*: .510"
Exhaust Valve Lift*: .530"
Lobe Separation: 112
Intake Valve Lash: .000"
Exhaust Valve Lash: .000"
RPM Range:
2200-6400
*Based on 1.73 Rocker Arm Ratio
They also have one with slightly higher lift (.519") but closer lobe separation (110 degrees)

If you're going to change cams and such, then you don't need to worry about keeping lifters and everything in order.

Rarely will a shelf cam be optimal and that one is incredibly small (think truck cam) and mild.

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Brent Lykins, Lykins Motorsports
www.lykinsmotorsports.com
brent@lykinsmotorsports.com

Thank you,
There is also this one. Is it true that 351c engines work best with wider lobe separation? This one is on the narrower side 110 deg
Part Number: 33162
Grind Number: 2906H
Intake Duration (gross): 296
Exhaust Duration (gross): 296
Intake Duration (.050”): 238
Exhaust Duration (.050”): 238
Intake Valve Lift*: .567"
Exhaust Valve Lift*: .567"
Lobe Separation: 110
Intake Valve Lash: .000"
Exhaust Valve Lash: .000"
RPM Range:
3400-7200
*Based on 1.73 Rocker Arm Ratio

Not sure if you have power brakes but that cam might be a little to roudy if you need vacuum. I have the off shelf Comp 282s in my old 362C. specs here below. Now with this combo I have the Aussie 2v cast iron heads and had to put the Crane roller rocker conversion because of the pedestal bosses. Also back then I was not as rich as I am now so I put the Crane Energizer 1.7 rockers. Think the set of those were under $150 to my door. If memory serves me right, I think this cam vacuum was in the 11-13 range.


Basic Operating RPM Range: 2,000-6,000

Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 236

Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 236

Duration at 050 inch Lift: 236 int./236 exh.

Advertised Intake Duration: 282

Advertised Exhaust Duration: 282

Advertised Duration: 282 int./282 exh.

Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.570 in.

Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.570 in.

Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.570 int./0.570 exh.

Lobe Separation (degrees): 110

Intake Valve Lash: 0.022 in.

Exhaust Valve Lash: 0.022 in.

Grind Number: 282S

jacek

Here is the only video I could find with an idle with that Comp 282s. Sorry for the quality, this was in 2013 and I had a crap phone. I actually made this video because my current 359c in the car now was done and just needed to be dynoed. After this video I pulled the engine/trans the same day. Too bad I didnt take video with exhaust on so you could hear the idle better but she had a little chop to her. Cam card said 2000-6000 rpm but my best passes were shifting at 6400. Oh and im guessing this engine was around 10.25:1 compression. Aussie 2v have close chambers and has .060 Badger cast flat top pistons with 2 reliefs and standard Felpro gaskets.

https://youtu.be/kt-RiuYThVo

238 at .050” is too big for your application and there’s not a factory Ford head that would favor a single pattern cam.

When you’re ready to get a cam, let me know. I’ll help you choose one.

_________________
Brent Lykins, Lykins Motorsports
www.lykinsmotorsports.com
brent@lykinsmotorsports.com