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PostPosted: Tue Jan 12, 2021 9:17 pm 
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nova467spanker wrote:
jacek

Here is the only video I could find with an idle with that Comp 282s. Sorry for the quality, this was in 2013 and I had a crap phone. I actually made this video because my current 359c in the car now was done and just needed to be dynoed. After this video I pulled the engine/trans the same day. Too bad I didnt take video with exhaust on so you could hear the idle better but she had a little chop to her. Cam card said 2000-6000 rpm but my best passes were shifting at 6400. Oh and im guessing this engine was around 10.25:1 compression. Aussie 2v have close chambers and has .060 Badger cast flat top pistons with 2 reliefs and standard Felpro gaskets.

https://youtu.be/kt-RiuYThVo

What a glorious sound!!. We definitely need to talk ;-)


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 12, 2021 9:18 pm 
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blykins wrote:
238 at .050” is too big for your application and there’s not a factory Ford head that would favor a single pattern cam.

When you’re ready to get a cam, let me know. I’ll help you choose one.

Noted. I will, Thank you!!!


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 13, 2021 7:44 am 
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Location: Texas
Quote:
What a glorious sound!!. We definitely need to talk


jacek

Thank you- camera sucked for audio though. That was the old engine. It sounded good and ran decent. I live in Texas and I could never keep that .060 engine cool. At the time my budget was alot less than now days. So you want to build a street car. Maybe I missed it but what transmission are you looking to put in it? Gears? These will also dictate what kind of street manners cam will be good for you

-Matt


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 13, 2021 8:28 am 
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nova467spanker wrote:
Cam card said 2000-6000 rpm but my best passes were shifting at 6400.


The notes on the cam card are about useless. That cam is meant to go into a 351, but how does the manufacturer know if it's a 351, a 393, a 408, or if the engine has factory 2V heads, 4V heads, 3V aftermarket heads, ported heads, etc. That cam would peak much higher with a higher flowing head, or lower with a lower performing head. Lots of variables. The issue with the shelf cams is that they are all universal, down to the notes on the cam card, spring pressures and everything.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 13, 2021 12:23 pm 
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nova467spanker wrote:
Quote:
What a glorious sound!!. We definitely need to talk


jacek

Thank you- camera sucked for audio though. That was the old engine. It sounded good and ran decent. I live in Texas and I could never keep that .060 engine cool. At the time my budget was alot less than now days. So you want to build a street car. Maybe I missed it but what transmission are you looking to put in it? Gears? These will also dictate what kind of street manners cam will be good for you

-Matt

Thank you Matt, yes a street car. I have a 73 Firebird with built 400 small block and it ran street so well I made it my daily and put 40000 miles on it driving kids to school. Roller rockers and solid lifters, too. I have a 5sp Richmond in it but I'm not really happy with that- it has short 1st gear and it binds up at high rpm in first so it is hard to shift up. But I definitely want a manual. 4sp OD or 5sp. That would be another recommendation needed.


Last edited by jacek on Wed Jan 13, 2021 12:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 13, 2021 12:48 pm 
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blykins wrote:
nova467spanker wrote:
Cam card said 2000-6000 rpm but my best passes were shifting at 6400.


The notes on the cam card are about useless. That cam is meant to go into a 351, but how does the manufacturer know if it's a 351, a 393, a 408, or if the engine has factory 2V heads, 4V heads, 3V aftermarket heads, ported heads, etc. That cam would peak much higher with a higher flowing head, or lower with a lower performing head. Lots of variables. The issue with the shelf cams is that they are all universal, down to the notes on the cam card, spring pressures and everything.

Oh I thought that cams were designed at least for a specific head type and intake/carburation/exhaust. I undertand the gearing variations will influence the overall performance but since these are down stream from the engine shouldn't they be rather spec'd to the engine build?


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 13, 2021 12:58 pm 
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A custom cam would be. Shelf cams are universal. They're just sitting on the shelf to be sold.

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www.lykinsmotorsports.com
brent@lykinsmotorsports.com


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 13, 2021 2:46 pm 
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Location: Texas
Quote:
Oh I thought that cams were designed at least for a specific head type and intake/carburation/exhaust. I undertand the gearing variations will influence the overall performance but since these are down stream from the engine shouldn't they be rather spec'd to the engine build?


jacek

Here is the way I see it. First you figure out what you want. In your case you want a street setup. That's half the battle. Then figure out what transmission you want. That will determine how low a rear gear you can get away with if you want to highway cruse. Then figure out the bottom end - do you want big block torque with a stroker, all stock stroke and rods or a little more performance bottom end just in case you decide to upgrade later. Then decide what heads and compression you want. Then decide what cam and induction that will work in a specific rpm range. That's the way I would approach a street build. Im sure others do it in a different order.

-Matt


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 13, 2021 4:13 pm 
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nova467spanker wrote:
Quote:
Oh I thought that cams were designed at least for a specific head type and intake/carburation/exhaust. I undertand the gearing variations will influence the overall performance but since these are down stream from the engine shouldn't they be rather spec'd to the engine build?


jacek

Here is the way I see it. First you figure out what you want. In your case you want a street setup. That's half the battle. Then figure out what transmission you want. That will determine how low a rear gear you can get away with if you want to highway cruse. Then figure out the bottom end - do you want big block torque with a stroker, all stock stroke and rods or a little more performance bottom end just in case you decide to upgrade later. Then decide what heads and compression you want. Then decide what cam and induction that will work in a specific rpm range. That's the way I would approach a street build. Im sure others do it in a different order.

-Matt

Much appreciated Matt
What i Have determined so far
I don't have transmission - probably T45 or TR3650 from a new edge mustang. They have a tall 5th OD style gearing for highway cruising. Unless I find something else but one of the two seems best possibility. 8.8" rear end TL 3.25:1
Stock bottom end block and crank. Original 2V heads. Compression about 10:1 . how I get there I'm not sure yet- will find out after I take off the heads and pull out the pistons. If pistons and bores are good I just plan to hone and re-ring them, deck the heads and the intake to match to achieve the 10:1
If pistons and/or bores are shot I'll get domed pistons to get the compression ratio and leave the heads and intake the way they are with standard heads rebuild whatever is necessary.
I'm not sure if how I get to the 10:1 matters but here it is. for induction I plan to use the aluminum edelbrock performer with the double pumper Holley I already have. It does have a 1" spacer if needed if that matters.
This is all I have so far. As for the torque curve I'm not after the low end torque- not big on burnouts and not planning to pull a boat. What it would like is free, powerful revving, maybe a bit lumpy idle to get the HI-PO vibe. What is to me essential for street use is good idle, smooth, easy off idle for take-offs, absolutely no flat spots all the way up.
That's what I got...
It does not really get cold here so cold starts are non issue. But constantly fouled plugs are a no-no, it is frustrating to hear the mis-fire and constant search for that fouled plug...
To be clear, this is not a planned daily driver but more of a local show weekend cruiser.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 13, 2021 5:26 pm 
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Sounds like you have some stuff planed out. So what car are you putting this in?


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