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PostPosted: Tue May 14, 2019 10:02 am 
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How do you guys get the brass restrictor below the thermostat out without damaging it?


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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2019 9:29 am 
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I've never felt the need to remove one, so no real answer. If I did, I have a smaller body work slide hammer and would fashion something for the threaded end of the slide to hook under the edges of the disk and then pop it out.

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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2019 9:43 am 
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Falcon67 wrote:
I've never felt the need to remove one, so no real answer. If I did, I have a smaller body work slide hammer and would fashion something for the threaded end of the slide to hook under the edges of the disk and then pop it out.

It has to come out, sending the block in for hot tanking, Im worried it will dissolve in the hot tank.I tried a little hooked pry bar I have, no dice, thanks, will try a slide hammer, and maybe a tiger torch on the cast iron part first. The last time I did this, it popped right out with a screwdriver, but the last time I built a cleveland, the motor was only 5 years old, its a totally different story when its been stuck in there for 49 years.
I was thinking last night, I can maybe try tipping it like a frost plug by banging on the edge with a screwdriver and a hammer, maybe I will give that a shot as well.


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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2019 10:23 am 
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I don't know anyone who uses a true "hot tank" anymore. It's too EPA unfriendly.

Most people steel-abrate (bake/tumble/shot) blocks and then jet wash them.

I've never removed one either and I've been building Clevelands a very long time.

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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2019 12:28 pm 
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blykins wrote:
I don't know anyone who uses a true "hot tank" anymore. It's too EPA unfriendly.

Most people steel-abrate (bake/tumble/shot) blocks and then jet wash them.

I've never removed one either and I've been building Clevelands a very long time.

Yes, but Im not in the US, so f**k the EPA ;) :lol: And yes, its actually being hot tanked


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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2019 12:38 pm 
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Look up blind hole bearing slide hammer.

We have one at the shop for wheel bearing races, but I supposed you could use it for this purpose as well.


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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2019 12:56 pm 
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booyah45828 wrote:
Look up blind hole bearing slide hammer.

We have one at the shop for wheel bearing races, but I supposed you could use it for this purpose as well.

I think what I will try is taking a piece of bar stock that I can fit through the hole, and tigging a nut onto it that will accept the thread on the shaft of my slide hammer. Im going to look that up anyway, sounds like it could be useful to have around, thanks for the tip.

EDIT: Cool, yes, I can see a lot of uses for this.
https://www.amazon.ca/Bearing-Internal- ... B00L4AZVYA


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PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2019 9:21 am 
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If they use Caustic Soda which is what shops here used to use, then that's what radiator shops used to use and all the old radiators were brass. So it should not attack the disk. I will eat aluminum and destroy the cam bearings. From doing a little reading, if they want to extend the life of their batch they will remove the cam bearings before soaking it.

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PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2019 6:26 pm 
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falcongeorge wrote:
How do you guys get the brass restrictor below the thermostat out without damaging it?


personally I would just buy one, two, three of these.... then you can run any of the windsor TS and there are many more temps available... I looked at the one pulled from my last build and there are no marks on it... think you need to clean the mineral build up around the cast above the brass restrictor.

https://www.flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/co ... s-bypass-1


edited: I know the shop put the block through the pressure wash tank (degrease & clean), before it was sent out to be hot tanked (and yes they still hot tank here in the USA... Los Angeles CA too ;^) ). I think it was pulled after the pressure wash & before HT here are a couple of pictures.


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PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2019 8:33 pm 
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Falcon67 wrote:
If they use Caustic Soda which is what shops here used to use, then that's what radiator shops used to use and all the old radiators were brass. So it should not attack the disk. I will eat aluminum and destroy the cam bearings. From doing a little reading, if they want to extend the life of their batch they will remove the cam bearings before soaking it.

Good point about the radiators. I honestly wasnt sure if the hot tank solution would eat brass just like aluminum.I tried a search on whether brass would be destroyed by hot tanking, didnt find anything either way.
Q1svt wrote:
falcongeorge wrote:
How do you guys get the brass restrictor below the thermostat out without damaging it?


personally I would just buy one, two, three of these.... then you can run any of the windsor TS and there are many more temps available... I looked at the one pulled from my last build and there are no marks on it... think you need to clean the mineral build up around the cast above the brass restrictor.

https://www.flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/co ... s-bypass-1


edited: I know the shop put the block through the pressure wash tank (degrease & clean), before it was sent out to be hot tanked (and yes they still hot tank here in the USA... Los Angeles CA too ;^) ). I think it was pulled after the pressure wash & before HT here are a couple of pictures.

Yes on removing the mineral buildup, I wire wheeled it earlier today, but havent made a second attempt to pry it out yet. When I obtained this motor, the distributor had been broken off, and the lower housing was frozen in the hole, and yes, I know thats common, and have encountered it before, but man, nothing like this one, it was the worst I have ever seen. Other times, I have been able to get them out by tearing the motor down, then flipping it over, dropping a bolt in the bottom of the distributor shaft, and driving it out with a hammer and punch, no dice this time, I had to drill multiple holes through the broken off end of the distributor casting, and drive the pieces out with a combination of punches and chisels. Its a decent std bore '70 4v motor, so it was worth the hassle, but man, it put up a hell of a fight. Took me about an hour this afternoon to get it out and clean the hole, no more time left to mess with the bypass. Tomorrow I will heat it up with a torch, then try again to get it out. Then I can send the block out and get it all cleaned up, bring it back home, acid etch the water jackets, fill it, send it back for boring and decking when I get back from holidays.

EDIT: checked the link, that is a good idea. Still gotta get the old one out though.


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