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PostPosted: Fri Aug 09, 2019 8:28 pm 
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I don't think that the flex plate does much to overcome alignment problems like when someone leaves a dowel pin out when they bolt up the bell housing. It does its job when the rear of the engine and or bell housing are not perpendicular to the axis of the crankshaft.

Using my friend Wes as an example again his truck(64 Ford) had a 557 or 572 big Ford and ran with a Powerglide transmission(transbrake) with an Ultrabell usually turning 5.70's at about 120mph in the 1/8th mile. The engine was mounted using motorplates front and rear. He spent a lot of time messing with the alignment to make sure that the trans was right on both indicated in on the crank centerline and perpendicular to the rear of the block. Using several different SFI approved flexplates ALWAYS resulted in cracking after a number of passes at the track yet when it tried a stock 429 flexplate it never broke again even after hundreds of passes.

This is the same guy who ran in the same truck a home made welded up driveshaft made from parts that came from a junkyard '78 Caprice and an Astro Van for YEARS with no problems. Then on the insistence of a friend switched to an aftermarket chrome moly racing shaft that came apart after three passes!

I do think that SFI is 99.9% a cash grab and nothing more and I don't feel that some part with a sticker from them is any less likely to break than something you could build yourself.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 10, 2019 12:39 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 25, 2019 9:05 pm
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Dave,
I didn't mean to touch a nerve here you are a guru my intent was clarification to aid me in making the right choice of flexplate. I never even thought about a dowel pin. I was thinking more along the lines of converter stud/bolt mounts not machined truly perpendicular. The dilemma is cash grab or not, there is a point when you need one as per the rules, and choosing the one right for the application regardless of if it is the best part available for the combination must be within the confines of the rules and the approved parts. I will go out on a limb here and say your friend is Mr. Littrell whom I have talked to in the past and I perceive as an extremely kind and knowledgeable person. I appreciate your sharing this information and your passion towards the sport, I am not a guru just a guy who has bled blue his entire life, has questioned and pondered different scenarios to learn and race within the confines of his mostly limited budget. Like you, I share the passion for the sport and the learning I have attained albeit limited in relation to others.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 10, 2019 7:03 am 
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Location: Orange County, NC
I might just be a dumbass and not know jackshit, but I know the Meziere flexplate I have is a lot nicer than the JW Wheels I also own.
The ATI flexplate is a nice piece too.

I've never broke a stock flexplate, but I have tore the center out of a JW in the past.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 10, 2019 7:04 am 
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Oh, now I get what you're saying. I'd say that you're right in that the flexplate would also help out if the lugs were not machined just right by giving a little bit.

If you have to use one I think that I'd probably get one like the Scat. I have a few of those that I use on my dyno and they are made just like a stocker but a little bit thicker. I used to not like the Scat because the ring gear teeth were really bad about stripping off with the slightest provocation. They seem to be much better now.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 10, 2019 10:45 am 
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Location: Texas
Interesting how the rules say to use SFI stuff but it breaks easier than factory. Mind boggling. Almost sounds like car insurance. Great when you have it, worthless when you need it.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 13, 2019 9:08 am 
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>I do think that SFI is 99.9% a cash grab and nothing more and I don't feel that some part with a sticker from them is any less likely to break than something you could build yourself.

100% in with this sentiment. I have to pull my bell housing and send it back to JW every 5 years so they can put a sticker on it. Same with the TCI aluminum trans shield - 5 years. It'll likely cost as much to box up the shield and send to TCI, pay for the cert, etc as it would be to just buy a new one. The flex plate is already out, it's 3 years. I'll look at that this winter.

This is where you start to think about putting the good motor in the door car, running less than 6.40 and selling off the dragster chassis. Slow down one second and none of the above applies. Even though you're pushing the same power through a heavier chassis.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2019 9:22 am 
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You'll slow down and none of that stuff will apply but you'll still have to change your seat belts every couple of years unless you use the original lap belt from the '60's cause its still ok for some reason...


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2019 9:38 am 
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LOL, yes. But I do buy belts that can be re-certified so that's a minor deal. Yea, a 1980 shoulder belt works in Sportsman. And 2008 and up unmodified factory cars can run down to 10.00, < 135 MPH and not have to have a bar/cage, belts, etc.

"2008 OEM model-year and newer production cars
running slower than 9.99 (*6.39) and 135 mph do not have to
meet the requirements and specifications for the Summit Racing
Series except for the following: Convertibles and T-tops must
meet Summit Racing Series roll-bar and roll-cage requirements.
Vehicle must pass all highway safety requirements in the state
in which the vehicle is registered. Unaltered OEM installed antilock brakes, airbag functions, as well as all other OEM safety
related systems must be functioning as per manufacturer’s
specifi cations. Note: Tires used may be other than OEM, but
they must be DOT-approved, All drivers must meet the Summit
Racing Series helmet and protective-clothing requirements for
the e.t. and mph of vehicle."

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http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod
"Owner built, owner abused."


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2019 10:57 am 
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The whole SFI system is flawed. Currently when you purchase the part you have to check the SFI date, as you can buy a new SFI part with an expired or near expired date. Add in things like gathering parts for an assembly the clock is ticking. If you break or have in issue then you can have brand new SFI parts that are expired and have never, or hardly ever been used. I think they should base these certifications on the number of passes made and have a punch strip that the tech team punch like the date code on a harness. So if they are using passes instead of number of years then those who only get out a few times a year would have the same usage as someone who has ran every event for the given number of years. It would also eliminate the issues of purchasing of short dated SFI products. :x

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2019 11:19 am 
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The best plan is probably to just race at a track that doesn't take part in this nonsense as part of their tech inspection.


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