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 Post subject: Re: Racing
PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2022 9:57 am 
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Wifes F-150 is 2WD. We don't buy 4WD trucks, don't need it. That is why the last two F-350s I've had, I had to order. Everyone here seems to want diesel and 4X so that's all the dealers stock. Right now, there's very little stock that I can see. The Lincoln dealer where I get my service done has so few cars they had people replacing all the canvas canopies on their lot. Gas this AM is 3.15~3.20 but diesel is still over $1 higher.

I was able to upgrade my old copy of RaceWorks from Altronics for $99 which was very nice of them. Regular is $199. I ran some reports out of Crew Chief Pro and put a few races into RaceWorks. Only one race last year with heat in the range we're seeing now, so I'll see how prediction goes next time we get out. Raceworks has no reports and I can't tell from the docs if the Advanced package has any. NONE of the reports out of Crew Chief included the Dial Ins so I had to run the reports, pull up the races and write in dials. I like the Altronics software so far, but their web and documentation needs some help.

Belts sent out for re-cert. FedEx changed me $34 initially to take 6 lbs from here to Santo - 96 miles LOL. I sent the package ground, 5 day delivery. They delivered it next day and changed me $46. Good grief. Be 2~3 weeks before I hear back.

Still working the puzzle about how to drill/tap the china walls accurately on the Dart to hold down the valley cover. The block will "fit" in my mill, but there's not enough Y axis travel to get to the locations. I may still try it - land it on the ways on an aluminum plate so I can spin it 180 after doing one side. And, have to see if I can clear out the area to the mill to get the engine hoist in there - that block is way heavy.

EDIT - called FedEx and bitched. I sent a 5 lb package to Albuquerque on same day for $15 and they got $46 for a 96 mile trip? I could have driven it there in the F-150 cheaper. I got a $5.20 credit, so that was worth the phone call at least LOL.

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 Post subject: Re: Racing
PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2022 4:16 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2012 2:49 pm
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Location: Orange County, NC
I talked to a couple of other racers who had their boxes do the same thing. I dont want to spend the money sending back a 25+ year old box to get repaired, so it looks like I'm in the market for a new delay box. Ugh. Cant stand the thought of dropping almost 600 on a new one.

It seems everyone around here wants 4 wheel drive as well. When we bought our dually all those years ago, we had to really look to find one that was not 4x4. I had no desire to have a 4 wheel drive tow vehicle.
The only reason I got a 4x4 F150 is for those few times it does snow, and for when we go on vacation trips to the mountains (way more frequently than snow.) Some of those roads getting to a cabin make you feel better knowing you have a 4x4.

So it seems my dumbass screwed up when I put the stock rod grenade together. I knew out of the 3+ different (partial) sets of old TRW/Sealed Power/Speed Pro domed pistons I have, that at least one of them the pistons were a significantly different weight than the rest. I never even thought about that when I drug stuff out, sorted out the least beat up ones, hung them on rods and stuck them in this motor. I know I've got a mismatched set cuz she vibrates....bad. So, I'm done running the stock rod deal for now. I dont want it to break the block or worse, break the crank.
I need to get the 393C together and in the car. Then if I ever get some free time, pull the stock rod pistons out and weigh them.

I took the rods/pistons for the 393 over to the machine shop tonight so they can put another spirolock on each side of the wrist pin. I hate those things, and instead of me screwing it up and getting pissed off in the process, I figured I would just pay someone else to do it so I know it is right.

I need to get it together and running soon. The Fall Fling in Bristol is only about 6 weeks away at this point, and I'm going to need to run the car at least one week before we go. If I cant get it together in time, I'll need to cancel my plans of going to that event.


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 Post subject: Re: Racing
PostPosted: Mon Aug 08, 2022 5:40 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2012 10:23 am
Posts: 1524
Location: Texas
Falcon67
Yes shipping and handling prices are ridiculous. I love Home Depot but a few months ago I put up some lighting at my moms house and I needed a weatherproof light box. Went on the ol Depot web and found what I need but its a non stock item. Go to desk and ordered in the store. Receipt said it would be at the store on a certain date - forgot what day but it was a weeks wait . The reason I had it shipped to the Depot was because the switch box was $30 and they were gonna charge me $80 to ship it to my house. Originally they never told me purchases over $40 were free shipping - they heard the ass side of me on that. I called the Depot headquarters and had a heart to heart and I asked them if they really thought it was a fair price to charge me $80 to ship from Dallas to my house 15-20 miles from me. They basically said it is what it is due to bla bla bla. Oh and my switch was 1 week late too. Probably would have been 2 weeks late if I didn't call them every day wanting to know why my email tracker says my shit is still on the same trailer in the same yard hand has not moved. Anyways, my mom is happy with my work and shipping sucks.


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 Post subject: Re: Racing
PostPosted: Tue Aug 09, 2022 9:45 am 
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Hope you get it all sorted in time KV. I've got an itch to get another set of 6" rods and put the 393 stuff in the block in the Falcon. I was looking hard at the old solid roller cam - I'll have to send some pics of the gear to Brent and see if it's runnable. It might not be as bad as I first thought. Since I run a crank trigger now, having a couple of worn teeth might not make that much difference when running against a bronze gear. I would be quicker and leave harder without having to spin the motor any faster, set the shift RPM at 6400 or 6500. Kepp RPM low to try and save the block.

The K&R box I have has been pretty good - I was a bit impressed with myself after looking at the dragster reports out of Crew Chief LOL. Lots of sub .010 lights. Losing rounds with a .00x, usually because the rail ran off-dial. But yes, the big full feature PZ3 K&R is big $$$. But looking just now, they have some cheaper models that don't have that "Z Force" option and fewer timers. "Cheaper" meaning under $500. I like that they now have fiber outputs to run their dial board. That would save a step getting ready to roll out from staging. Right now I have to make sure the dial board control and the box have the same number, so I usually set all that when I roll up in the lanes.

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Chris - Merkel, TX
http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod
"Owner built, owner abused."


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 Post subject: Re: Racing
PostPosted: Sat Aug 13, 2022 7:46 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2012 2:49 pm
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Location: Orange County, NC
I looked at a K&R box. But the thing that is pushing me towards getting a Mega 450 is, the Mega will bolt right to my mount, and from what I can tell, all the current wiring will simply match right up. Probably take me longer to get the box set up than to actually install it.

I got the heads off the 357. I'm going to need those for the 393, and it's easier to reach stuff to pull the motor without them on there. I did notice my pushrod length was wrong. Several of the retainers were fouled up on top where the rocker was digging in to them. Guess I need to put some longer pushrods in next time. It's really hard to see the correct length when setting it up with the motor in the car.

I think it's time to sell the APD carb. I have two BG carbs that work and my brother in law has a Quick Fuel 850 alchy carb he says I can use whenever I want. I should be able to get somewhere around 600 bucks for it. It's over a grand for a new one, so I dont think that's asking too much.


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 Post subject: Re: Racing
PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2022 8:29 am 
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I noted the big box in one of the videos - yea, you'd have to really like something about the K&R to switch. I powered mine up with a batter last night - 1.065 last delay in the box lol. I power it once in a while to keep it from losing it's programming.

$600 seems fair - IIRC, it doesn't come with much of a recommendation LOL!

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Chris - Merkel, TX
http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod
"Owner built, owner abused."


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 Post subject: Re: Racing
PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2022 7:13 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2012 2:49 pm
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Location: Orange County, NC
Hopefully I'll have the rods/pistons back tomorrow. They thought the new spirolocks were going to be delivered Friday. I called him in the morning, and he said if UPS got there early enough he would get them knocked out and give me a call. He said otherwise it would be Monday. I never heard from them, so I'm really hoping to hear from them tomorrow.
I have the crank and cam in the block. I put a light hone on the block so hopefully the rings will seat again. The heads are cleaned up, as is the intake, timing cover, oil pan, and water pump. I think everything is ready to put it back together once I get those parts back.
I decided I'm going to put the other converter back in as well. I know the history on it, plus looking back in my log book, it seems to 60' more consistently. Now that I know it wasn't the issue for the erratic lights, I feel good about putting it back in the car.
I did buy and install a Mega 450 RT box. Man, that hurt dropping 600 bucks on it, but if it helps tighten the lights up when I add/subtract time, it should be worth it.
At this point, if my lights still jump all over hell, I got nothing to blame but the guy letting go of the button.
I would like to go this upcoming weekend. But I dont know if I will be able to swing that or not. I dont want to burn too many days off using them to thrash to get the car together, but it might be the only way if I really want to go saturday.


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 Post subject: Re: Racing
PostPosted: Wed Aug 24, 2022 10:01 am 
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LOL - I just thought about it, but if you're light still move around it could also be an issue with the button. Hopefully these fancy $$$ boxes are using some internal "debounce" to let the button settle consistently. Push button contacts tend to do the make/break/make thing a lot.

In other news - finally got the wire delivered and my lovely assistant and I pulled it all in the conduit run. Had to lease an argon tank (vs buy) because they are having a hard time getting/keeping tanks so they only lease by the year right now. I've started trying to lay beads with the new TIG. It looks so much easier in the videos! Going to be good, but it going to take a lot of practice to get to the "fixing stuff" stage.

Image

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 Post subject: Re: Racing
PostPosted: Thu Aug 25, 2022 9:23 am 
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Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2012 12:02 pm
Posts: 507
Only suggestion I can give tig welding is for you to have the material you're welding to be spotlessly clean. Even if it looks clean, you need to hit it with a wire brush and acetone to be sure.

Also, get a dedicated tungsten grinder, or at least a dedicated wheel for your bench top grinder for, only for tungsten. It's extremely picky on impurities.

Also, get separate wire brushes for aluminum vs steel vs stainless. Get them from a welding supplier, so that you know they're good.

Not sure what you're practicing on, but I'm about to try welding 18 gauge stainless for a kitchen sink I'm shortening. I'll take all the luck you want to send my way, as I'm leery on if I can even do it.


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 Post subject: Re: Racing
PostPosted: Thu Aug 25, 2022 12:07 pm 
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Have all those items - dedicated tungsten grinder is a HF 3 1/2" grinder with a diamond wheel sourced off Amazon. Have tungsten for both steel (2% thoriated) and aluminum (pure). ER70S-2 filler for steel/moly and 4043 filler for aluminum - 1/8 and 1/16 for both. Practicing on steel right now - moving the torch, moving the torch hot, controlling the heat. Even at 75A, this thing will easy heat penetrate 1/8" x 1 1/2" steel bar. Need to get that down first - already tried doing that and filler, hands not trained enough LOL. Easy to contaminate the tungsten so getting good are re-grinding the tip. Cups 5,6,7 no gas lens or fancy stuff yet. Run the gas at about 20 CFH with a bit of pre and post delay.
Using a pedal right now, also comes with a hand trigger for the torch. Experimenting with the shade levels to find what lets me see the puddle and the material best. You can't do zilch if you can't see and walk the puddle.

Only thing I know about stainless is that for headers and such you have to back purge the tube with Argon to prevent oxidation. For sheet, probably not an issue. I'd for sure practice on scrap if possible. Google to foo out of tips and such. Stainless is tricky. My oldest grandson has worked around fab shops (as a material hand, pipe and tank mfg) and said right off "If you can TIG stainless, you can make bucks Papa." So there's my retirement goal!

The first goal for me is to build repair saddles for the uprights on the dragster. I plan to buy about 24' of CM for the various parts and practice a lot before I hit the chassis. These are not super critical parts of the chassis, but if I get those right anything else I add - tabs and such - will go easier for sure. I'll have to be in a kind of award position too, which makes it that much more difficult. Next would be tabs for the rear motor plate. Next project, maybe form some .030 sheet aluminum into a belly pan so I can ditch the diaper. Eventually, wing mount tabs. :)

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http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod
"Owner built, owner abused."


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