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 Post subject: Re: Racing
PostPosted: Sat Jun 25, 2022 6:28 am 
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Location: Orange County, NC
I called the shop about the crank. The guy doing the work on it had left to go racing wednesday. Luckily the guy I was talking to knew what was going on. He said they spun it up monday (maybe tuesday) without any weight on it to see where it was. I had told them if they could internally balance it without spending a fortune, to go that route. If they couldn't, to go ahead and order a new flexplate and balancer since the only ones of those I have are currently bolted to the stock rod motor, and were not happy on the 393 anyways (and I dont want to screw them up for the stock rod motor balance.) He said it wanted a lot of weight front and back to balance, so they had ordered a new balancer and flexplate. He said, "hold on, it's still in the machine, I'll tell you what it needs." So he went over and looked and said it wants 360 grams up front, and 358 in the back. I have no idea how good/bad that is, but it sounds like a lot to me.

I'm going to go ahead and pull the stock rod motor out of the racecar this weekend. Dang, just realized if I pull that thing out, I have no where to set it. Gotta think on this.

I did get the valve train bolted to the street windsor. Found out those old school valve covers will not clear aluminum roller rocker arms. I have found some valve cover spacers on Speedway that arent priced too bad, so I need to order a set. I tried bolting a set of old school M/T cast aluminum valve covers on it, and they wouldn't fit either. Since that thing is going in a '69 convertible Cougar, it HAS to have some old school cast aluminum valve covers. I want to put a new fuel pump on it as well, plus the water pump that was on the motor has the inlet on the wrong side, so I'm going to get a new one of those too. Then once it's all done, I have to pray hard that I can get the AC brackets to fit since she wants to keep it on the car.

I havent heard from the shop that has the heads, but he's only open for half a day on friday's (he works all day, but is technically "closed" the last half and says he gets a lot of work done during that time.) I do have a new REV exhaust valve if he cant find something comparable to the Ferrea he took out. The REV isnt tuliped like the Ferreas are, but it's better than nothing.


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 Post subject: Re: Racing
PostPosted: Tue Jun 28, 2022 11:07 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2012 2:39 pm
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>I havent heard from the shop that has the heads, but he's only open for half a day on friday's (he works all day, but is technically "closed" the last half and says he gets a lot of work done during that time.)

Our local guy has long been "by appointment only" with the shop door locked - otherwise, people just wander in and shoot the breeze and nothing gets done.

We did not go racing this month, too much other stuff and grandkids coming to visit last week and this. Xtreme has a bracket race 7/23 so we may go to that. Since my birthday is 7/24, that'd work nice LOL.

In the mean time, I bought a tool. And like most big tools, the "get it going' equipment will cost about as much as the tool.
Image

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Chris - Merkel, TX
http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod
"Owner built, owner abused."


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 Post subject: Re: Racing
PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2022 7:25 am 
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I've been looking at that unit too, So let me know how it works out.

There's a couple kickstarter units that I've been eyeing as well.

I just want miller quality and features at a non-miller price. Is that too much to ask? :lol:


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 Post subject: Re: Racing
PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2022 9:03 am 
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LOL, not it's not too much to ask. I did gas welding in high school, but haven't done much since. TIG is supposed to be similar in technique, so I'll find out. The Primeweld gets great reviews everywhere and people compliment the customer service when they need it, so I figured it's a good a shot as any. I can buy Miller all day locally for $$$$ of course.

I need to run a 50A circuit before I can really light it up. It does run on 120 but I'd like to have everything in place to get the full capability. I really want to learn to stick pieces of aluminum together and that requires amps. Planning on 3 outlets so I can use it all over the shop. Just 7 4" boxes, 5 sticks of 3/4 conduit, a few fittings and 25' of Aluma-Flex (just in case I can't bend pipe) was $160 at Lowes with their card discount. Got the 6-50R sockets coming from Amazon, then saw them at Lowes for cheaper, by like a dollar - dang it LOL.
I still have to buy wire, which I'm going to source from our work electrical contractor. He recommended 2 runs of #8 and a #10 ground to reduce cost and still meet code. I'm betting a 125 cf Argon cylinder is going to run easy $350. I prefer to own vs rent. Bought a cart from Harbor Freight because it's cheap, I just have to modify the top shelf to accommodate the size of the Primeweld. There's a good chunk of 18 gage steel laying behind the shop that should provide material for that. There's still tungsten, bought a small grinder from HF to use for tungsten grinding, a diamond wheel for that from Amazon, filler rods of various types, etc. I also plan to buy a box of cuttings from the Chassis Shop to practice on chrome moly before I start on the dragster fixes.

I'll for sure update when I get the thing lit up.

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Chris - Merkel, TX
http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod
"Owner built, owner abused."


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 Post subject: Re: Racing
PostPosted: Thu Jun 30, 2022 1:17 pm 
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Location: Orange County, NC
Heads are done. He said the springs were ok, but to get the seat pressures where they needed to be he had to put a .100 shim under them. Given the shitty shop only had like a .025 shim under them, I'm gonna guess they didnt have near enough seat pressure on them originally.

The other shop called about my crank. He said it needs 50oz flexplate and damper. No wonder it was unhappy when I bolted 28oz stuff to it. When I bought that motor and he told me it was external, I just assumed it was 28oz. Boy that was wrong. Luckily I didnt keep trying to run it or it would have eventually come apart.
The shop asked if I wanted to get the parts myself or if I wanted them to order them. I told him to go ahead and order the stuff. It's just easier to go pick everything up and know all I have to do is bolt it together. I wont be racing next weekend, but things are slowly coming together.
Funny thing is, the longer it takes to get it going, the less desire I have to bust my butt getting it running. I've actually been thinking A LOT lately about getting my street car back together and actually been working on a plan to do just that.


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 Post subject: Re: Racing
PostPosted: Sat Jul 09, 2022 7:13 am 
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Location: Orange County, NC
Picked my heads up yesterday. At this point, it looks like I am going to be bolting them to the stock rod grenade. The other shop cant find anyone with a good 50oz SFI balancer in stock. I think they are picky about what they put on stuff which is probably leading to the delay. I looked online, and the only thing I could find actually listed in stock, besides some cheap chinese shit, was a fluidampr, and I flat refuse to run one of those.
The upside to running the stock rod motor is, it is already basically together, and is in the car. It's less work to install the heads with the short block in the car than it would be to pull that motor out, pull the parts off it I need for the 393, assemble the 393, then put it in the car.
If the weather cooperates, I hope to have it running this weekend. I have a couple of other things to work on, so it's not the only thing on the agenda. I bought the better half some of those Holley RetroBright LED head lights for her 67 Cougar and I want to get them installed. It's her birthday this month, she really wants to drive that car more, including after dark, but as we all know, the 1967 factory headlights, by today's standards, are about worthless.
Also on the list of things to do, I got some more parts for the Windsor I am freshening up for her Cougar convertible.

Farmington is running next weekend. Not sure how I feel about towing clear over there, plus they have a whole slew of things on the docket to run that day. We will probably only get one time run. Probably not smart towing over an hour and a half, with a new motor/converter combo, and only getting one time run. But, no one ever said I was smart.
Then the following week Roxboro is running on saturday. We will get two time runs for that race.
So anyways, there is a little update on where I currently am.


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 Post subject: Re: Racing
PostPosted: Sat Jul 09, 2022 10:13 am 
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Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2012 10:23 am
Posts: 1522
Location: Texas
Not sure which 50oz balancer you need but these SFI are in stock

https://www.summitracing.com/search/dep ... proved/yes


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 Post subject: Re: Racing
PostPosted: Sat Jul 09, 2022 11:17 am 
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Location: Orange County, NC
Like I said, I think they are picky about what they use.


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 Post subject: Re: Racing
PostPosted: Sat Jul 09, 2022 4:41 pm 
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Location: Orange County, NC
I didnt get a lot done today. Turns out all that crap I dumped in to the cooling system to try and get the head gaskets to quit leaking made quite a mess in the block. Remind me to never do that again. There was what looked like jello in the water passages towards the bottom of the deck. I had to scoop it out with a screw driver, then go get really hot water and dump thru the system to help soften up the remainder of it enough that it would run out. I'm gonna have to dump the water out of it after I run it and put some heat in it the first time.
I managed to get that done, and get one head set on there. The bolts are in, but they are just snugged down and not torqued.
After that I decided to mess with changing the head lights on the better half's 67 Cougar. Talk about a train wreck.
2.5 hours later, I managed to get ONE headlight changed. Either I'm completely incompetent, or that whole design SUCKS.
You can not get the head light in the trim ring if the spring is still attached. The spring on the trim ring is what essentially holds the bucket in place. But if you unhook the spring, you can not access the back side of it at the same time you have access to the front because the damned head light doors are in the way.
The only reason I got one side done was because it really looked like her daddy had done some homemade engineering on that side. I finally quit fooling with the other one once it started to rain (remember, I dont have a garage.)
The good thing is, I simply plugged it in, and it changed brightness with the high beam switch. I think they're going to be substantially brighter, but I may need to replace the other two eventually to really brighten things up.
So that was all I managed to get done before it started to rain like a cow pissin on a flat rock, and it hasnt stopped yet.


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 Post subject: Re: Racing
PostPosted: Sun Jul 10, 2022 5:51 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2012 10:23 am
Posts: 1522
Location: Texas
Cougar lights
If they are like my 70 Cougar lights then they are not to hard. All you have to do is take pliers and detach the spring. Then unscrew the 2 screws on the chrome bezel and the light will fall out. Line up 3 tabs with new lights with corresponding divits in light buckets and reverse order to install. I will admit though, sometimes that spring will make you want to blow the car up. Needle nose vise grips hint hint


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