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 Post subject: Re: Racing
PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2020 7:13 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2012 2:49 pm
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Location: Orange County, NC
Still been thinking about it. What I think the best plan is, is to pull the 393, yank those junk heads off, and sell the shortblock. I should be able to get enough out of it to buy a set of AFR 220 heads without anything out of pocket. Get the 377 fixed so it doesnt spit out head gaskets like a 5 year old eating brussels sprouts, and sell as much of my C crap as I can to fund putting the 408W together. The 377 ran fine, although not as fast as I would have liked, other than the head gasket issue. I can deal with it being on the slow side until I can get a different platform motor put together. My mind will probably change 15 more times. LOL

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 Post subject: Re: Racing
PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2020 7:25 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2012 10:23 am
Posts: 1317
Location: Texas
Falcon67

See, this is what im talking about with affordability.
https://www.airflowresearch.com/315cc-b ... nder-head/

now price a set of Cleveland heads
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs- ... /make/ford

The 460 will kill the Cleveland and for around the same price and do it longer and with less wear. I love my 359c but still always wished I put a BBF in my car. Oh well you do what you can.

Oh and don't forget about these monster heads for a 460. Almost same price as those Cleveland 225cc heads but these will suck any Cleveland or Windsor up and blow it back out all day

https://www.summitracing.com/compare


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 Post subject: Re: Racing
PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2020 7:29 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2012 2:49 pm
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Location: Orange County, NC
This is cool. They shot some footage with a drone on Saturday.
Packed in there like sardines.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k1jeeuv ... e=youtu.be

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1969 mustang, 377C/powerglide
2011 Roxboro Dragway Top ET Champion


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 Post subject: Re: Racing
PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2020 8:04 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2012 10:23 am
Posts: 1317
Location: Texas
kv racing

Here is your budget build right here. My buddies have pushed these stock blocks well past 1000 at the wheels with turbos. No grouting either because they are true street/strip cars. You put together a 408w with this one and 600-700 hp all day no problems. Only thing that sucks for the stroker Windsors is having to clearance the cylinders and pan rail. Get it. Already a stock roller block too so solid roller cam easy.... Oh not sure if you have Facebook but thats where I saw this. Im on a Fast Foxbodys group.

Image351W by 359daddy, on Flickr


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 Post subject: Re: Racing
PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2020 7:11 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2012 2:49 pm
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Location: Orange County, NC
I already have a 408W shortblock. Eagle rods, steel crank, forged flat tops, internally balanced, etc. It went 6.30s in the better half's car on race gas with a mild cam and Vic Jr heads. Out of the box AFR 220's, a real race cam, my alchy carb, and it should go 6 teens pretty easy. I just need the funds to buy the bolt on stuff as the other heads, intake, pan, headers, water pump, etc, all that stuff, is going back on the 393 for her car.

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1969 mustang, 377C/powerglide
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 Post subject: Re: Racing
PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2020 8:40 am 
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Posts: 2791
Not all 408 kits will need to have the cylinders clearanced. Most won't, just depends on the rod that's used. Pan rail doesn't need to be touched until you get into the 4.170-4.250" stroke stuff and even then, it's not all the time.

Also, the roller block is just for hydraulic roller purposes. You can stab a solid roller camshaft in any Windsor block, whether it's a roller block or flat tappet block, just because all solid roller lifters are link bar lifters. The roller blocks are just nice when you're using OEM style lifters, with the spider/dog bones, because you can use a standard base circle cam.

I would be very leery on any 351W block at over 650-700 hp. If they all would take 1000 hp without issue, then Dart/World/Ford Racing wouldn't be selling any blocks. Unfortunately, they will split down the middle just like the 302's will.

That short block at $250 is a steal. Wish I were close to NJ.

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 Post subject: Re: Racing
PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2020 3:53 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2012 2:39 pm
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I have a 72 casting 351W block in the shed that I think is a .020 over and good for .010 more. The downside is the crank is for the 2.75 C mains. It seems heavier than a regular C block of the same vintage. Lot heavier.

We may be pulling our race - weekend weather is going to hell pretty quick. Vegas closed and we're getting calls from Arizona to see if we're running. COld both days, 20% rain Friday, 50% rain Saturday, not going to want people to pull 16 hours to sit in a rain out.

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http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod
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 Post subject: Re: Racing
PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2020 7:33 pm 
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Location: Texas
blykins

ya my buddies have made some stout Windsor's from 302 and up. They keep asking me when I want to ditch the Cleveland -make more power cheaper and more reliable.
I personally would not go over 800 crank hp but they insist the 351 roller blocks are good for 1000 wheel. They say of coarse you cant skimp out on the expensive parts but its all in the tune and fuel you use. most are on E85. A few of you on here probably know my buddy Manny Alvarez. If you don't, he has been tuning and building those Street Outlaws OKC cars the last few years. He rebuilt Monza Camaro, retuned Docs Monte Carlo which was running 5 kits but is now faster with less kits after Manny tuned it, He re did Kamikaze's El Camino and many more. Not to mention they have their own Camaro - Boosted Ego. So any ways he does the tuning. Back about 7 years ago he had my buddy 90 Gt with the stock block-rods and all with a custom hydro comp cam and stock computer going in 1/8 6.0's That was only shifting at 6000rpm and with a 3.27 welded rear diff. That stock 302 went through 3 different centrifugal blower set ups and 2 different single turbo set ups. It dynoed 630hp/650tq at wheels.Could have went alot more but kept it safe. Funny thing is, the block did not split but in fact the #1 crank main broke in half. Looking at it you could see it had been fractured for a long time. It use to throw even a cog belt every 3 runs or so and I contribute that to the crank flexing at #1. So with all that, that little 140,000 mile junk yard engine with stock pistons and only ring gap opened lasted 3 years. The stock head bolts would lift all the time and I finally convinced him to put ARP in it lol. Cheap bastard!!!
So the 351 roller block is a go in my book. Manny also said the roller 351 is stronger than the old non roller blocks by the way.


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 Post subject: Re: Racing
PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2020 4:55 am 
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Yeah, I’m not on the same page as Manny....lol

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 Post subject: Re: Racing
PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2020 8:34 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2012 2:49 pm
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Location: Orange County, NC
Me either. LOL

You give me the choice between a 69-70 block and a 94 roller block, I'm taking the early block every time. They are physically heavier for a reason.

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2011 Roxboro Dragway Top ET Champion


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