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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2018 6:36 am 
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Falcon67 wrote:
Headers - find a used cheap set if possible. Super Comps are big $ and your headers will be up and out about 1" compared to a 351C and a Torino isn't a Galaxy. One option will be to buy Super Comps for the Torino and have them modified as required. Otherwise, custom headers - about $1000 around here plus the power coating. Not even Tubular Automotive lists swap headers for a 351C in a Galaxy.

Cheaper, not Super Comps which is a better header:
https://www.jegs.com/i/Hooker-Headers/520/6920/10002/-1


What about a set for a 72 or 73 Torino they are not that different than a Galaxie and it might be pretty easy to make a set work with some "fitting".


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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2018 8:56 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 08, 2016 2:19 pm
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Location: Odessa FL, Blairsville GA
Would a 72 or 73 Torino fit be any different and maybe a better shot at it than the 70 that supposedly fit in this 64 Galaxie?
Thanks.


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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2018 7:31 am 
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462ho wrote:
Would a 72 or 73 Torino fit be any different and maybe a better shot at it than the 70 that supposedly fit in this 64 Galaxie?
Thanks.


The Torino switched from a unibody to a body on frame after '71. But I didn't realize that you're trying to put the engine into a '64 Galaxie so my idea probably won't get you closer because the design changed in '65 after which all of the big Fords and the 72 up Torino were very similar.


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PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2018 9:07 am 
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Joined: Fri Jul 08, 2016 2:19 pm
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Location: Odessa FL, Blairsville GA
Thanks for the advice. I will bring a set of Torino headers with me next time I go up there.

This 400 block motor has Eagle rods in it. What stroke or type of rods (BBC or Ford) would these be based on the era of the motor build (at least 20 years ago with the Jo Mar stud girdles)?
What is the likely displacement of this motor with these rods and what pistons would have been used?

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2018 10:59 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2012 9:05 am
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You won't really know what you have until you crack it open.

You can easily measure the stroke through a spark plug hole, that will at least tell you something.

However, without having part numbers or specs, it literally could be anything.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2018 9:32 pm 
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Location: Odessa FL, Blairsville GA
I got back up here, installed the 4.11 chunk and drove the car. It is still running not that great, as the acceleration is fairly sluggish and it breaks up at 5000 rpms, no more power.

I am trying to determine the cause. The engine sat stored in a crate for at least 15 years, springs were not loosened. What is the likelihood that the valve springs lost their tension? One guy who rode with me said it is not the springs, as if they were bad they would be skipping at all rpm's, not just top end.

He said the ignition could be a likely problem, as all I have is an old Mallory unilite. The rotor is good, though. He said to get an MSD 6AL box and a Blaster II coil for it. He said the carb is getting enough gas as he could smell it.

The only other cause I can think of are the exhaust manifolds and full 2 inch exhaust.

Any thoughts on this are appreciated.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 30, 2018 8:41 am 
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It really could be anything: ignition, fuel, mechanical.

A weak valve spring will not show up until higher rpms. You could always pull a spring off and have it tested.

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www.lykinsmotorsports.com
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 14, 2019 9:22 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 08, 2016 2:19 pm
Posts: 59
Location: Odessa FL, Blairsville GA
I am back up with this car. I had to get the bronze distributor gear repinned, as it sheared. In an attempt to get the timing right, I used a piston stop to find true tdc on my balancer, which turned out to be very different than the markings on the balancer. It turns out this could be a Boss 302 balancer, hence the different timing marks.

I got everything back in and got it to start and it liked what appeared to be about at least 20 degrees btdc by estimate.
Fifteen minutes later, I rechecked the timing and it now looked more like 40 degrees, car still ran the same. All this was just idling and light revs sitting in the garage.

What would likely cause this, and is there anything special about that balancer with so many relief holes in it?
Was it specially matched to the crank and flywheel, so I would need to keep it with that engine?
Thanks,


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 15, 2019 10:37 am 
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If you're certain the timing was set at 20*, and there is nothing whacky going on with the distributor advance, then your balancer ring might be slipping.

I'm not an expert on old balancers, but the 3 bolt pattern for the crank pulley says early SBF to me.

Not sure why they drilled all the holes. It would have to be for balance purposes but most builders will drill on the hub, not the balance ring. I'm not sure if I'd entirely trust a balancer with the holes drilled where those are. Old balancers are notorious for coming apart as is, drilling those holes would make that event happen even more likely IMO.

With all the trouble that you've had with this engine so far, I'd have removed it and tore it down to verify what I have and to ensure that it's together correctly.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 15, 2019 12:42 pm 
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Looks like a regular basic pre-1969 3 bolt crank balancer. If it appears to have been modified for some reason, better to discard it. You'll find more pulleys and accessory items for a later 4 bolt balancer anyway.

Image

Powerbond replacement at Summit -
https://www.summitracing.com/search?Sor ... rd=PB1082N

If you intend to use this ting over 6000 RPM you should source a SFI rated balancer anyway.

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