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PostPosted: Mon Nov 18, 2019 2:58 pm 
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I've seen those Fel-Pro performance gaskets on a big block Ford sort of fall apart after a while and start leaking too but most of the time I've seen them leak toward the valley. Your gaskets don't look too bad but isn't interesting how the printo-o-leak bead intersects the coolant hole on the block side of the gasket? I doubt it was a problem with the stud. In my one monster truck engine the head was ported so that the port broke into the stud on the exhaust side. They were always rusty when I took it apart to rebuild the engine but besides making the heads a pain to remove they never caused any problems.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 18, 2019 4:24 pm 
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Thanks Dave! I have not pulled the right head, but all of the studs removed from the valley side had liguid/oil in them. I imagine the other head gasket may be similar. Bought new studs anyway - fasteners would be among the last things I'd rather skimp on.

I made a "call" this weekend to just go ahead and pull the motor out and have a good look at it. It's been in service a full two years and could stand a look at a couple of rod bearing samples and a couple of mains and the thrust to make sure all is well. I'd also like to put fresh valve seals in, maybe cut a little off the heads from 62 down to 60cc (little bump in compression to 12.0 might be nice) and such. Seems a waste to put new head gaskets on, run maybe two days, 6~10 rounds or so and then pull it apart again.

I put some used slicks on the Falcon and I'll run Footbrake if the race makes. And, it's $50/day cheaper too. It's November, who knows here. It might be 80 on Thanksgiving weekend and it might sleet, never can tell.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2019 9:51 am 
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Another thing to check is to see if the heads have "relaxed" a little bit, become shorter and loosened the studs. I have this problem on another one of my monster truck engines where the studs on the exhaust side of the head will be tight in the hole right at the top when the heads are removed after a year or so of use/lots of heat cycles. The next time I have the engine apart I'm going to spot face those bosses and put on some of those hardened washers which are shouldered and stick down into the hole a little bit. It doesn't seem to cause a problem with the head gasket but that's a big Ford with an A460 style head with a very long stud out where the head gets hot when compared to a small block. It is 9/16ths though...

I think what happens is that when the engine warms up and the head expands it gets too tight under the stud and actually yields a little bit. I think that this could be a bigger problem on Fords than on other engines because you have a great big stud that's the full thickness for its entire length which causes it to be less elastic. I bet if the studs were undercut along their length they would be more effective. That's one of the reasons why they should be avoided if possible.

Remember when ARP used to have different torque specs by about 25% if you ran an aluminum head?


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2019 11:16 am 
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Good point - the new studs came with a "110 ft/lb" torque requirement. No specification for aluminum vs iron. My notes on the old studs said "100". Before I remove the right head, I'll take a torque wrench,set it to 100 and see if anything turns a hair. I also didn't note going back after a few heat cycles and re-torquing the studs. I need to take better notes, or have a better checklist LOL.

I did not have to fight any of the studs coming out - my install method is to thread them in dry holes with a touch of ARP lube on the end, run down hand tight and just a bit of a tweak with a hex handle. I look close to be sure no lube has oozed out the top to contaminate the deck surface. If any squeezes out because I got heavy handed, I pull that one, clean and try again.

After reading the whole Hot Rod article about fasteners and ARP, the undercut was discussed but only on the issue of rod bolts. I would agree after reading that you'd think ARP would use the same type design on other studs.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 19, 2019 8:22 pm 
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G,day Chris,
Bit late to comment but you can see by your pics where you had the coolant leaks on the head gasket for sure.
Hopefully everything is nice and flat.
For what its worth, i use the 1013 gaskets, but i give them a hit with vht copper head gasket spray, i know it is not reccomended but believe me it works awesome.
They need to retensioned after the engine has been run and has had a couple of hot cold cycles.
Wait till the engine is cold, drain the coolant then retension them in sequence one at a time, you need to back the nut off before retensioning as the nut starting torque is a lot higher than turning torque.
i use 110 ft lbs with the arp studs and the old gray arp moly lube,
If you are using the new arp lube or engine oil you will need to go more.
Cheers


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2019 9:30 am 
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Thanks for the note! I've had good luck with the 1013s and no sealer. The ones on the Falcon engine have been there for about 5 years now without issue. I will do the re-torque after race one next season. I only use the ARP lube on their fasteners, I keep a medium size bottle of it on the shelf.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2019 3:50 pm 
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I think I'd dump the studs and go with the bolts.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2019 4:00 pm 
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Gday,
In a mild application like that Dave i think you are correct.
I saw more issues when i first went to studs because of the crap design of the studs, the stock ford main and head bolts are a good thing.
Cheers


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2019 5:42 pm 
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DaveMcLain wrote:
I think I'd dump the studs and go with the bolts.


? I don't even use bolts on the water pump. :)

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 20, 2019 6:08 pm 
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I have two sets of head studs, hell, maybe three, and I refuse to use them. I have two sets of ARP head bolts that I use instead.

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