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PostPosted: Tue Jun 22, 2021 1:18 pm 
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Location: Orange County, NC
That sucks. I thought you have it figured out.
It almost sounds like it is time to replace all the ignition, even if it it's with borrowed parts, just to see if that cures it.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 22, 2021 3:09 pm 
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I thought for sure I had it fixed. Ignition is all that hasn't been completely gone over or replaced, except maybe plug wires.

Have a friend that may have a extra 7AL-3, he's looking. At worst, if the 7230 in the dragster would fix the problem, would be using the 7230 in the Falcon and dropping $800 for a new 7330 and a couple $$$ more for a coil.

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http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 23, 2021 7:24 am 
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I hate electrical problems.
I always end up just throwing random parts at it hoping I get lucky and find the right one.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 23, 2021 11:49 am 
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Well, I decided to just throw the book at this one.
-Find old blue MDS pickup for the distributor in the spares pile
-change whole wire set
- 7AL3
- MSD Pro Coil
-replace rear 4 pole shutoff.

Planning to mount the 7AL3 where the Mallory box is near the radiator support so I can use the same power/ignition wiring plus a shorter shielded cable to the pickup.

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http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod
"Owner built, owner abused."


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 26, 2021 7:15 am 
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Location: Orange County, NC
If that doesnt fix it, my next step would be to kill it with fire. LOL

My plan for the day is to get my old 70 moved under a car port. It runs, but you have to fancy hot wire it, but the brakes dont appear to be working. However, since it runs, and has a spool in back, I refuse to push or pull a car that will move under it's own power. So I'm going to drive it under the car port. It might not stop once there though. LOL


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2021 3:18 pm 
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At 3050 lbs, if the Falcon isn't on flat ground, ferget it. And even in the shop it's all I can do to push it a few feet in a straight line LOL.

Out with the old
Image

Hmmmm
Image

In with the new
Image

The car likes the 25 degree fixed start retard. To get it fired up I had to turn the distributor way more than the 4 degrees alluded to in the 7230 instructions. But it did finally start and run. Still sounds like shit at times, like it has some dead cylinders. I'm going to pull out those fancy E3 plugs and put either 24s or AWSF32Cs in there. And maybe change the plug wires.

Went a bought like $50 worth of ground cable and a bunch of different cable ends as the new 4 pole switch uses 3/8 studs. Took a trip to O'Reilly's and the local big hardware store. Bonus - hardware store sells some really good flavored pretzels. The rear shutoff for sure has problems.

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http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod
"Owner built, owner abused."


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2021 3:40 pm 
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I tried e3 plugs in my stock 2v OC engine, and it instantly idled and ran like shit after install. Swapped em out with some autolite 25's and the idle and drivability instantly returned. Random misfire, bucking, chugging, the whole 9 yards. Changing the timing did zilch to fix it either.

The science seems good with them, but the real world test told me otherwise. YMMV


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2021 5:41 pm 
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Location: Orange County, NC
That burnt spot doesnt look good. If it's that discolored on the outside, what do you suppose the board inside looks like?

I've gotten to where I just put NGKs in everything. They're not expensive, they always work, and I had never found any power to be had by using anything different.
Hopefully a new set of plugs cures whatever the leftover unhappiness is.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 28, 2021 7:29 pm 
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Location: Texas
Falcon67
Good deal man, hope you get it a "wired out" ;) Electrical can be such a pain for sure.

Thats why a couple months ago I tore out all the wiring in the Cougar. Mainly to cut down the probability of a wiring fire but also for functionality and looks. Some people (not on this forum) were like "you are ruining the car - you don't even have the blinkers working" I'm like "blinkers for what, to signal which staging lane I'm going in"???

Sorry,- off topic but thought I would share. I hate dealing with electrical but I am still proud of my efforts.

Rats nest

Imagewiring1 by 359daddy, on Flickr

The only pigtail and 2 wires I used from the whole rats nest was from ignition switch circled.

Imagewiring by 359daddy, on Flickr

See the 2 wires circled. Yellow - hot power and Black/tracer is ignition hot. Now everything is on its own circuit so no more of the wires going from the fuse box - to the tail lights - back to the front marker lights - then to the blinkers and hey lets go ahead and put a jumper wire for the A/C with a fuseable link inline too. Ford was very creative.

Imagewiring2 by 359daddy, on Flickr

This is a shot behind the plastic cluster panel I made. Just wanted to see the clearance of the wires and gauges before I wire loomed and zip tied everything.

Imagewiring3 by 359daddy, on Flickr

I also have this Painless 7 circuit HOT/SWITCHED panel mounted on the backside of the glove box door I made -original door is in the attic. This powers the MSD which is mounted on the trans tunnel you can see in bottom of picture. It also powers some other stuff.

Imagewiring4 by 359daddy, on Flickr

kv racing

I also rebuilt the whole brake wiring assembly - bulb sockets too. If you want to see how I did it I will show you. Oh and the SYLVANAIA LED bulbs # 2357R are worth the price to replace the stock 1157 incandescent crap. I can show you video how good they are.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 29, 2021 8:41 am 
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Wiring is a job - you cleaned that up in a big way. Don't look under the dash of the Falcon, it's not pretty LOL. That's a future project.

The back of the 685 is air gapped a bit from contact with whatever surface it's mounted on, so the heat spot says trouble to me. IIRC, the PCB slids ouf of that aluminum extruded housing, so I plan to do a deep dive just for fun.

I use NGKs on the dragster heads - 6BPRES if I recall. Just bought 16 Autolite #24s from rockauto, even with delivery it worked out to about $1.80/plug. Have to look up the NGK cross to see what that is. I've run the Autolites or the Motorcraft for years without any trouble. I'm betting part of the issue is those E3s. Partially concerned about the pickup coil but the resistance checks. I trashed another trashed MSD 8580 for the blue pickup and will keep that handy.

NGK 2623 BPR6FS looks like the cross.

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"Owner built, owner abused."


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