www.the351cforum.com

ALL things related to the Ford 351C
It is currently Sun May 22, 2022 5:46 am

All times are UTC - 5 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 57 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Tue Jun 29, 2021 9:45 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2012 2:49 pm
Posts: 1339
Location: Orange County, NC
I've run Autolites in the past, and never had any issue with them. I guess my personal preference is NGK.

I run R5673- (whatever heat range is required) in all my clevelands. I have either 8s or 9s in the 377 right now. I cant honestly remember which one it is. That series of plugs just seems to work well for me all the time.

Wiring is a job, and I'm not very good at it.
When I bought my racecar, one of the first things we did was tear all the old wiring out. It was a disaster. I knew with my luck there was no way I could run it that way and not have it end up burning to the ground. Everything was spliced together with scotch locks, different wire gages, and colors, it was a mess. There would be 10 inches of purple 14 gage wire, scotch locked to 2 feet of green 12 gage wire, scotch locked to a foot of 14 gage white wire. The entire car was wired that way.

When I get ready to put my 70 back on the street, I'm going to want to do that LED tail light conversion for sure. Maybe even make it sequential.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Jun 29, 2021 3:54 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2012 2:39 pm
Posts: 1726
LOL, sounds like what I've hacked up over the years. Most of the "race stuff" is in a box I built in the trunk, with power lines run forward to feed the in-car wiring at the old Ford harness pickup point. But under dash has been thrashed by car stereos, misc tachs and gauges hung under the dash and such.

For a street/strip, one of the multi-circuit kits would work real well IMHO. For a race car, I'd pop for the K&R control board, harness and control panel. That's what the dragster has and it's a slick and robust system. I just sent the control switch panel back to them last year and they updated it for not much $$.

_________________
Chris - Merkel, TX
http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod
"Owner built, owner abused."


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2021 8:21 am 
Offline

Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2012 10:23 am
Posts: 1496
Location: Texas
Sorry to hijack your thread

So this is how I wired my brake and parking lights. No need for blinkers so just simple. I put the park lights on its own circuit with a pull switch and the brake lights on its own circuit with the brake switch. Since the 1157 bulb it a 2 stage (one bright - one dim) that's how I separated the 2. I bought the 12 circuit box from Summit. Originally I thought I was gonna have to put each incandescent bulb on each positive out. Then I got smart and said to myself "just run LED's and you can wire 3 bulbs together on the left and 3 bulbs on the right together and barely use any voltage" :idea: So I ran (2) 8 gauge wires from my under dash fuse block I put in when wiring the under dash stuff to that box. The 2 RED wires out go to the LT&RT brake lights - YELLOW wires are for the parking lights. Bingo, simple and easy to diagnose if needed. Everything is soldered and heat shrunk too. Here is how they work. The sun was right behind me but trust me, they are real bright.

https://youtu.be/lOjbghtQeQI

I also tested the voltage drop from original bulb to LED's. Original bulb test was 1 bulb and only on the BRIGHT post not both filaments on. Second test was with all 6 LEDs on together. Both test were basically the same length in time and I had them wired directly to the battery with a 10a inline fuse. I had to use my pull switch though to test the LED's - 6 wires harder to hold at once.

Test 1 https://youtu.be/Lh_lt_lRlTA

Test 2 https://youtu.be/pDJInf2Ot_I

Imagewiring5 by 359daddy, on Flickr

Imagewiring8 by 359daddy, on Flickr

Imagewiring6 by 359daddy, on Flickr

Imagewiring7 by 359daddy, on Flickr

Got these bulb sockets from O'Relly's.Yes they are kinda cheap quality but I called West Coast Cougars and they wanted my first child for original stuff. I tried the white plastic one - sucks! You have to run a separate ground wire for that one.

Imagewiring9 by 359daddy, on Flickr


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2021 3:08 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2012 2:39 pm
Posts: 1726
What part #/mfg LEDs did you use - I've bought a few and all so far were lame compared to incandescent units.

Got the 4 pole cutoff switch replaced last night - new ends on the big ground cables and on the power feed lines so that problem should be gone now. 165A Moroso switch ought to handle the load.
Image

The basic layout of the control box.
Image

NHRA Rules say you have to break the positive power. In an alternator car, that only causes a surge as the alternator tries to make up for loss of the battery. To meet the "spirit" of the rules and handle the alternator issue, my setup breaks the 8 Ga power feed to the main circuits and also breaks the negative cable. When switch is off, the car is electrically dead and the alternator is isolated with the battery. The black thing left of the box is a big circuit breaker for the alternator feed.

_________________
Chris - Merkel, TX
http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod
"Owner built, owner abused."


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2021 3:21 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2012 2:49 pm
Posts: 1339
Location: Orange County, NC
I had a problem with the cutoff switch one. It was the switch that was on the car when I bought it, so I dont know how old it was. And it was just one of those cheap Moroso switches. The car left the line, set the front tires down, the engine made a bang, and shut off like the power was killed. I coasted over to the side, spun it over, it had oil pressure, so I hit the power and it fired right up.
A buddy of mine told me they chased an issue like that on one of their cars for a couple of weeks before they replaced the switch and that cured it. I wasnt going to battle it for a couple of weeks, so I ordered the biggest switch Flaming River had and installed it. I couldnt tell you how it's wired, but even with the alternator hooked up, you turn the switch off while the car is running and it shuts the car off.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2021 6:54 pm 
Offline

Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2012 10:23 am
Posts: 1496
Location: Texas
My alternator with external regulator would shut off just fine. I put the 1 wire in and like Falcon67 said if you wire it where you would logically think it should go - at the cut off pole then car still runs even though there is no voltage going to the alternator. I had to wire the alternator on the same pole as the battery feed and wal-la car dies but alternator wire stays hot with switch off. Makes no sense to me but okie doki.

That is a big difference in with just one 1157 glass bulb vs. 6 LED's huh? Not only less power consumed but also no heat from the LED. Its said LED last longer too but time will tell. They are $20 per pack of 2 - so $60 for a Cougar but so far well worth it. oh and no broken glass in the tail lens when you pull out the bulb socket. I tried the white and it made the lens took orange so definably get the ones pictured. West Coast Cougars has their own LED's but that price. They also have the digital turn signal box .

Imagewiring10 by 359daddy, on Flickr


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2021 9:49 pm 
Offline

Joined: Mon Nov 05, 2012 3:54 pm
Posts: 125
Falcon67 wrote:
Unscientific test - The Mallory 685 has a small LED that flashes and there's a small noise when it fires the CD. I hooked a Durspark with - AFAIK - a stock Ford pickup in it and spun it by hand. blink-blink-blink, pop-pop-pop. MSD with a blue pickup - POP-POP-POP. Noticeably louder. FWIW. No guarantee that the Ford part wasn't some aftermarket item. Spare distributors here are mostly old junkyard finds.

Also of note - the pickup I received from Summit/MSD and installed was black, not blue. So there's that.

So, I did get it fixed on Friday. Wife had to run the computer at the track, so I dropped her off and went home to work on the car. Here's what the old stuff looked like - how it got this way - ??? I used the bead blast cab to clean up the reluctor and the advance mechanism. We live in a dry climate, so extra ? This dist. was in the dragster, so maybe something to do with methanol use.

Image

Got it all buttoned up by about 9:30. Saturday was a total fail of a race. We were hosting the Texas Drag Racing Asso. They run nostalgia eliminators and some nostalgia Super Stock cars. The NEs run 4.65, 5 and 5.50 indexes and the NSS runs off a posted set of class indexes. Well - nearly nobody showed up. Took use 6 hours to run like 45 cars, most delay with the NE classes getting turned around. We had 4 -FOUR - NSS cars. That's right, two rounds and done. Track put up $500 each for a 5.50, 6.00 and 6.50 indexes and we drew about 8 cars. Most were regulars that were going to run one thing then dump into a higher index. We ended up just running those as an all run bracket class. So I shoulda brought the car. Could have at least run it some.

BTW - starting line track temp at 2 PM was 143F. Long hot miserable day

Get home about 7 and park the trailer in the street. Unloaded the baseboard material and went to load the car. I just had a couple of gallons in it, so grabbed a jug sitting in the shop and dumped it in the cell. There were three to choose from - I didn't choose wisely. Car gets out of the shop OK and dies in the driveway. Acting again like it's got a fuel problem. Cough, barf, struggle, die. Grab a flash light and go look in the cell to see if something has plugged the outlets. What I see is all kinds of cloudy muck floating around. WTH. Grab same jug and pump the cell out. Unhook the feeds and let the rest run out on the driveway. Wedge my hand in there with a rag and wipe the floor - WATER. Apparently, the jug I picked up was old fuel and had condensation in it. Luckly, I had 5 gallons of methanol waiting for alcohol carb testing. I used some of that to dry out the cell and flush out the fuel line. Put 5 gallons of good VP110 in there and about a quart of methanol. After some fits and sputtering to get the junk out of the carb, got it running again. Everything else in a clear jug that I wasn't sure about became weed killer in the back alley. The $100 I didn't spend running this weekend will buy two jugs of fresh 110 next weekend. So at least that. Good grief.


Way late to this post (and all the others too) but....after seeing that tremendous corrosion to the ditzy shaft and advance mechanism tower, I think it is a galvanic reaction unrelated to methanol use. Consider: dissimilar metals in contact with one another (note that the inner spring posts are clean but the outers are rusty) and in the presence of electrical fields often cause that kind of surface corrosion and what I'll call white flaking. If your ditzy cap isn't vented, I'd try it...or add more vents. That and adding a ground directly to say the ditzy hold-down plate or the ditzy body itself (yeah, I know it sounds weird but stranger things do happen!). Your likely bleeding some electrical energy into the upper body, hence the chemical reaction resulting in that strange corrosion.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Jul 01, 2021 9:04 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2012 2:39 pm
Posts: 1726
That distributor ran in the methanol engine for 3 years. None of my other MSD units have and none are like that, neither are the Ford units laying all over, under the bench, in the storage shed, etc. I know about what you're saying, but I don't see it on anything here. And normally it's a dry climate. This year, yea - we're the Pacific NW with the rain and they are the ones at 110F+. On all the cars, engine blocks and frames are grounded with #4 cable. I don't have issues with dissimilar metals in the cooling systems either, what with the proper connection and using distilled water plus coolant additives.

_________________
Chris - Merkel, TX
http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod
"Owner built, owner abused."


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Jul 01, 2021 10:22 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2012 2:49 pm
Posts: 1339
Location: Orange County, NC
I'm gonna have to pull the rotor out of mine and see what the reluctor looks like. I've used the same distributor on alchy for 10+ years.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Jul 01, 2021 11:02 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2012 2:39 pm
Posts: 1726
I'm thinking it could have come from carb work on the dragster motor which regularly spilled alcohol around the intake. Would not take much for that to get into the cap, or be exposed when the cap was off.

_________________
Chris - Merkel, TX
http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod
"Owner built, owner abused."


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 57 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group