www.the351cforum.com

The '69 and '70 Mercury Cougar Eliminator came with a shorter, near identical version of the Ford Boss '9 hood scoop. You've likely seen one but it is shorter than the Ford piece. I put one on my '70 Mach 1 (sorry, no pic) as the Ford Boss '9 unit looked too tall for my taste. Love how the shorter Eliminator scoop looks.

http://www.musclecarcalendar.com/richard_6.htm

FWIW - grafting a fiberglass scoop to a 'glass hood is a pretty straight forward deal. Lay the scoop on the hood where you want it and mark the outline. Use a flap wheel to grind through the gel coat on the hood to expose the glass matting. Grind a bit outside the line for future feathering and inside enough so the scoop lip sits in the ground area. Also grind the underside of the scoop lips a tad to make sure a little matt is exposed - if needed. Put the scoop back on and drill a bunch of small holes around the edge and stick the scoop to the hood with sheetrock screws. Double check the fit/location/etc. Remove the screws, pull off the scoop. Paint the outline/ground exposed matt area of the hood and the underside lips of the scoop with fiberglass resin. Be a bit sloppy, you want a good coat for bonding.
Place scoop and screw it down. Let it set up a day. Remove screws. Depending on the situation, you may want to cut strips of matting and place those around the scoop bonding area to help the transition to the hood and fill in any gaps. Sand. Sand more. No, still more. Apply lightweight body filler. Sand more. Long board sand 80 grit. Still more. Repeat filler. Repeat sand. Switch to 120 grit. Wipe with wet towel. Use that red spot filler snot to fill in all the bitty holes. Sand some more. Sick of sanding? Spot prime and switch to 240 on the long board. Sand more. Spot prime all the sanding scratches and work from 240 to at least 400 grit. Wipe with that wet towel and if it's not a nice smooth transition - sand more dammit. Spot prime - again. There's always some little pock mark. Repeat until you scream.

Prime with heavy build primer. Sand - yea, again. Wet/dry up to around 400 grit up to 600. May have to prime it again. Paint. Call up your favorite body shop and holler into the phone "Now I know why you people charge so much!"

Note - glass to steel is just about the same deal, you'll just have a somewhat wider filler transition because the scoop lip will sit a little higher. As long as you get a good wide bond to the hood, you can feather the scoop lip edges as needed to minimize the filler area.

_________________
Chris - Merkel, TX
http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod
"Owner built, owner abused."

Falcon67
Thank you for that info. I have watched videos how to do it but the problem is no one makes a cowl for the 70 Cougar. The 67/68 Cougar hoods are more flat and even the 69 hood doesn't have a big bump. One of those universal cowls would probably work for those cars but the 70 bump is alot wider and higher. I have seen videos how to make molds and then make hoods etc... from fiberglass but I'm just not skilled enough to make a cool cowl mold like in those pics I posted to graft to a hood. I thought about buying one of them universal cowls but I just don't want to be out the money and not be able to use it if I screw it up. The Mustang life is so easy

Just my worthless opinion here.

If you didnt start the cowl so far forward it would be easier to make a universal fit. You could trim it to fit around the bump and have a more tapered transition to the cowl. We intentionally bought a shorter cowl for my car so we could get it back farther to where the hood was flatter. A 70 Mustang hood aint as flat as you think, and you realize that once you start trying to bond a cowl induction scoop to it. I also went with one shorter in height because I didnt want to have to look over it, and all I really needed was a couple inches of clearance. No reason to slap a 4' or more scoop on the car when 2 1/2" did exactly what I needed.

When my buddy bonded the scoop to my hood, he did lay some extra matting down over the bonded area. The hood was really thin (when we ground the gel coat off, you could literally see thru the hood) and he was concerned about it cracking around the scoop, plus it made it easier to make a smooth transition from the scoop to the hood.
My hood is now in not so great shape at this point. The corners are in bad shape because the thing is so thin they have started cracking. Along the edges by the fenders as well. Where he bonded the scoop is still good though.