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PostPosted: Fri Apr 05, 2019 12:59 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 15, 2019 12:42 am
Posts: 16
Location: Graham, Washington
Hello, new here and just looking for some ideas on my Cleveland build.

The car is a 1973 Gran Torino Sport Q code 4 speed. I initially had no love for this car and bought it because it was a great deal and was somewhat rare being an original 4 speed. After driving it a bit, the big ugly beast is starting grow on me. I dug in to the original matching numbers engine and found some cam lobes going flat and decided not to put it back in. I want to set the original to the side and build something fun to beat on.

I have acquired a good pile of parts over the last couple years. I plan on using a set of 4V CC heads on whatever I build. They are all ready to go except for valve springs, pedastals are cut, spring seats are cut and new stainless valves. Not sure if I’m happy with the valve job but that can be taken care of. Several different blocks to choose from and a nice freshly ground factory crank. I have a set of KB 108 hyper flat tops but not sure if they are appropriate for what I want to do. Also have a brand new set of really old Crane gold rockers. The only intakes I have are cast iron so that will have to be acquired. I also built a set of headers for this car while I had the nose off of it, 1 7/8 primaries long tube in to a 3 inch collector then an x-pipe. Was planning on a dual 2.5 inch exhaust.

The car weighs about 4000lbs according to what I can find on google. Currently has 3.50 gears and a wide ratio top loader. Most of my driving is on roads that are 50 mph or less so I am willing to drop down to 4.11 gears to help get the big beast moving. It is currently a non-posi so I need to dig into the rear axle any way.

What I’m looking for is a fun engine pushing but not exceeding the limits of streetability. I have always built stuff the conservative boring way and want something a little rowdy this time. I know some compromises have to be made because it’s not going in a 2700 lb Mustang. I know a stroker will be my best bet but I’m not sure if my bank account agrees, might be able to make it work though. I’m not afraid of valve adjustment so I am thinking a solid flat tappet would work for me, not sure if a solid roller is in the budget.

So I guess my main question is how fast can we make this heavy pig go while still being able to street drive it. I have always wanted a high rpm small block that wants to be shifted at 6500 plus, is it possible with what I have to work with? I don’t need something that will last 100,000 miles and be totally maintenance free, maybe 2000 miles a year at most. If I build it and it’s too rowdy for the street I won’t be upset, it’s just a toy to play with. The online calculator says I need 560HP to get down to the NHRA roll bar limit of 11.49, can we get there? Sorry for the long first post but I figured the more info the better. Thanks in advance for any replies.

Ken


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 05, 2019 4:38 am 
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Joined: Fri Aug 17, 2018 9:33 pm
Posts: 55
Check out Jules build in the results section, XY GT - 393 4V, that's a pretty stout build with hp around what you're after. The Aussie XY GT weighs in at around 3700 lbs, maybe a bit more....


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 05, 2019 7:48 am 
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Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2012 10:23 am
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Location: Texas
With that heavy of a car, 560hp for a 11.49 is most likely 560hp at the wheels - not the crank.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 05, 2019 8:36 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 15, 2019 12:42 am
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Location: Graham, Washington
XAFALCON wrote:
Check out Jules build in the results section, XY GT - 393 4V, that's a pretty stout build with hp around what you're after. The Aussie XY GT weighs in at around 3700 lbs, maybe a bit more....

I have looked at that one before and it sounds similar to what I want. Is that intake available in the US?


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 05, 2019 8:38 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 15, 2019 12:42 am
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Location: Graham, Washington
nova467spanker wrote:
With that heavy of a car, 560hp for a 11.49 is most likely 560hp at the wheels - not the crank.

I’m not hung up on any specific hp number or ET, just looking to see what I can reasonably get out of it and still drive it.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 05, 2019 5:39 pm 
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I'm not from the US but I'd imagine so, may have to import it? But there's plenty of other options for you to choose from for less $$$ without the hassle of importing.
You wouldn't need to follow that build to the letter but just gives you a good idea on what can be achieved with some 4v heads, and a good bit of cam and still make a decent driver.
I'd ask Brent to spec you a cam once you've decided on your combo....


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 06, 2019 6:05 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2012 9:05 am
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You can get there on the street, but it will take some rpm.

Skip the cheaper pistons and get a nice set of forged pistons with a modern ring pack. A little work to the cylinder heads with new Ferrea/SI/Manley valves and a Strip Dominator, along with one of my solid roller cams will get you to where you need to be.

I'd go a little deeper on the gears, probably 4.30 or 4.56.

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www.lykinsmotorsports.com
brent@lykinsmotorsports.com


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 06, 2019 7:17 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 15, 2019 12:42 am
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Location: Graham, Washington
blykins wrote:
You can get there on the street, but it will take some rpm.

Skip the cheaper pistons and get a nice set of forged pistons with a modern ring pack. A little work to the cylinder heads with new Ferrea/SI/Manley valves and a Strip Dominator, along with one of my solid roller cams will get you to where you need to be.

I'd go a little deeper on the gears, probably 4.30 or 4.56.


Thanks Brent, I will be contacting you when it’s time for a cam. Would a cam such as you are suggesting still aloe the use of power brakes?

The valves I have currently are new PBM/Erson that came with one of my parts acquisitions, I have been told they are good quality but not sure ?

I am assuming going to a 408 would help out significantly with the gearing requirements?

Should I be thinking about aftermarket rods at this level with a standard stroke crank?


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 06, 2019 7:27 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 15, 2019 12:42 am
Posts: 16
Location: Graham, Washington
XAFALCON wrote:
I'm not from the US but I'd imagine so, may have to import it? But there's plenty of other options for you to choose from for less $$$ without the hassle of importing.
You wouldn't need to follow that build to the letter but just gives you a good idea on what can be achieved with some 4v heads, and a good bit of cam and still make a decent driver.
I'd ask Brent to spec you a cam once you've decided on your combo....


Thanks,

That was one of the builds that caught my attention while reading through this forum. He does say his car weighs 3360 without driver, I’m gonna be closer to 4300 with driver. I am willing to go with a lot better gearing and have lots of room for tires. The other question is how is the gas down in Australia? I have 92 unleaded where I live, possibly e85 but it is not readily available on every street corner here.


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 06, 2019 8:12 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2012 9:05 am
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Going to a 408 would help considerably. Adding displacement makes it easier to make hp without the cam and compression that would be necessary in a smaller engine. But it’s also a lot more expensive....

Yes the cam I would suggest would require the use of a vacuum canister reserve.

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www.lykinsmotorsports.com
brent@lykinsmotorsports.com


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