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PostPosted: Sat Apr 06, 2019 8:35 pm 
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Location: Graham, Washington
blykins wrote:
Going to a 408 would help considerably. Adding displacement makes it easier to make hp without the cam and compression that would be necessary in a smaller engine. But it’s also a lot more expensive....

Yes the cam I would suggest would require the use of a vacuum canister reserve.


Thanks, just trying to find the best bang for the buck. I seems like by the time you buy pistons and new rods, the entire stroker kit is not that far off. I just can’t do it all at once, if I do the stroker I will have to spend less on valvetrain. If I spend more on a roller cam and lifters, the stroker is out. I just need to find my happy medium.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2019 5:53 am 
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Nothing wrong with a stock stroke. Just have to run more cam and a little more gear.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2019 7:46 am 
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Location: Texas
Heavy car with a small block then go stroker or put a big block in it.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2019 11:49 am 
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Go with Matts plan for heavy car. That way you can make engine milder and end up the same. A big car needs tq so the 408 will help. Recently did a mild 408 that made 551@6200 and 519ftlb@5000. So not stretching it by any means. The heads will support that hp easy so save money there.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2019 2:34 pm 
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I'm on the fence about it and I think it would just come down to your budget and what you own already. If you're in it to buy pistons and rods already, then a steel crank will set you back another $750.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2019 4:09 pm 
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Location: Texas
in a regular mans world of racing "There is no replacement for CUBIC displacement" Ya its cool to build an engine an see hit 8000-9000 rpm but i would say 9 out of 10 times an engine making the same hp/tq that only spins to 6500 rpm will live without problem twice to 3 times longer.

If you have a tight budget, build your bottom end and be done with it. You can always change heads, valve train, cams, and intakes later. Just my thoughts.

Take it from me, I went the wrong way with my build. I wanted to go 408 but by the time I got everyting, I had no money for the stroker kit. Dont get me wrong, my 359 runs damn strong but the 408 would be dominate. Not to mention my 3000 stall i got for the 408 is not high enough and i really need a 5000 stall or so. Wish I can put a Lenco in it, that would be ultimate.

My build incase you want to see it. viewtopic.php?f=3&t=242
-Matt


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2019 4:45 pm 
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I won’t say that I disagree, but I would say that your engine, Matt, with a little more cam would do what he needs to do. No need to spin it sky high.

I know big cubes sound cool, but in today’s world, with 4000 lb Challengers, Chargers, Camaros, etc, it’s easy to see what correctly applied hp will do.

Remember that cubes add torque which is more important in a street driven car. In a race car, you can substitute torque with stall and gears.

I’m not arguing either way, but I’m back to saying that I would look at what parts are available first and see what the budget is.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2019 5:11 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 15, 2019 12:42 am
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Location: Graham, Washington
I appreciate all of the feedback on this topic. This is the battle that has been going on in my head for some time. I know the stroker is probably best but there is a fun factor in seeing what you can get the way Ford built it. As near as I can tell, a balanced Forged stroker assembly is gonna be $2500+. Then add new flywheel and balancer timing chain and valvetrain components the parts bill could be approaching $4000. Then add machine shop work. Then if I’m gonna spin it up a bit I should be getting a scatter shield which I’m not even sure will fit with my headers.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2019 5:22 pm 
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Location: Graham, Washington
nova467spanker wrote:
in a regular mans world of racing "There is no replacement for CUBIC displacement" Ya its cool to build an engine an see hit 8000-9000 rpm but i would say 9 out of 10 times an engine making the same hp/tq that only spins to 6500 rpm will live without problem twice to 3 times longer.

If you have a tight budget, build your bottom end and be done with it. You can always change heads, valve train, cams, and intakes later. Just my thoughts.

Take it from me, I went the wrong way with my build. I wanted to go 408 but by the time I got everyting, I had no money for the stroker kit. Dont get me wrong, my 359 runs damn strong but the 408 would be dominate. Not to mention my 3000 stall i got for the 408 is not high enough and i really need a 5000 stall or so. Wish I can put a Lenco in it, that would be ultimate.

My build incase you want to see it. viewtopic.php?f=3&t=242
-Matt

I remember reading through your build. Looking at the chart it seems to make pretty reasonable torque down at 3000 rpm but I wonder how much worse it would be with iron 4v heads? I am willing to go a little crazy with gearing because of the locations I normally drive but not too crazy. I did look up the difference in rpm between 4.11 and 4.56 and it’s less than 500 rpm at 60 mph, not as bad as I thought.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2019 5:51 pm 
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The factory 4V heads are no slouch. They are not TFS quality from the factory but with the right valve job they will get up and boogie.

I made 620 hp with a stock stroke, factory heads with good valves and our valve job, and a Strip Dominator. I spun it to 8000 to get there, but my point is that the heads work well and if you’re aiming for 550 hp, it would be much easier and much more reliable.

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