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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2020 10:08 am 
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Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2012 12:02 pm
Posts: 336
That's interesting. Maybe you should try eliminating the msd box with a points distributor like you said.

Crazy that the system wouldn't have better rf interference protection though. Being underhood, there is stray frequency and magnetism everywhere.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2020 8:27 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2012 10:23 am
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Location: Texas
DaveMcLain

Ya if I payed all that money for that fuel injection set up I would be pissed off if it acted like that.
I remember back in 2013 when I put my current engine in my Cougar I was kinda in a rush to get it in and working. So I got it fired up and it would run but would act like a misfire and just ran like ass. I thought maybe the MSD 6AL that I had just got fixed from MSD had a problem. Nope, it was my dumb ass who hooked the 2 wires going to my Duraspark distributor backwards. After that, it was game on....


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2020 9:14 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2012 1:52 pm
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nova467spanker wrote:
DaveMcLain

Ya if I payed all that money for that fuel injection set up I would be pissed off if it acted like that.
I remember back in 2013 when I put my current engine in my Cougar I was kinda in a rush to get it in and working. So I got it fired up and it would run but would act like a misfire and just ran like ass. I thought maybe the MSD 6AL that I had just got fixed from MSD had a problem. Nope, it was my dumb ass who hooked the 2 wires going to my Duraspark distributor backwards. After that, it was game on....


I've done that where I had the phasing wrong. That's why I have a switch on my dyno that makes it easy to swap the polarity of the pickup wires.

I'm looking forward to running it again and trying a few things to hopefully fix the problem. I'm also amazed that it is sensitive to RFI. While my dyno facility is not elaborate or fancy in any way the electronics usually work just fine. One time I ran a magneto and it didn't work so well but overall its not a problem.

On the dyno the ignition coil is mounted back on top of the absorber. This keeps it out of the way but on a Ford the coil wire has to go all the way from back to front and in this case past the injector. The first thing I'm going to try is moving the coil to the front of the engine and clamping it on somewhere.

I just hate screwing around trying to just get things to work when I could be using the time tuning up the engine.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 26, 2020 12:54 pm 
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I just spent/wasted some more time working on the EFI system. I just can't get this junk to run.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 26, 2020 6:22 pm 
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Joined: Tue Nov 06, 2012 10:23 am
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Location: Texas
bummer man. you should tell Holley to overnite you a new programmer to see if thats the issue. If they dont send you one, tell them to expect a package at their door.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 26, 2020 7:08 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 12, 2017 8:33 am
Posts: 12
Dave not sure if this is your issue but these are pictures I took of my Holley Terminator. The slots on the base at the front and rear are for the MAP sensor and idle air control valve, I believe. One picture shows with no gasket, the others with different gaskets and a 4 hole and open short spacer. The Terminator also comes with a open spacer that is even shorter than the ones pictured. I have not used the 4 hole spacer but that seems to completely block those holes / slots and will not use it with this FI. I used the black gasket with the open spacer with an MSD Atomic FI with no issues on a Scott Cook dual plane intake with good results.

https://imgur.com/Bi5AoE2
https://imgur.com/onwhIM6
https://imgur.com/0PQcJ6V
https://imgur.com/6Ehv4pB
https://imgur.com/DqYo7tr


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 29, 2020 10:15 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2012 1:52 pm
Posts: 658
Right now I'm running it with a very short open "spacer" thick gasket that's probably 3/16 of an inch thick. The next thing I'm going to try when I have it running again is to use a higher base timing setting. I know that the engine runs best with 28 degrees of timing. Right now I have my "static" timing value at 12 degrees. I'm going to change that value to something much higher and above what the engine needs for timing say 35 degrees, reset the distributor and try it again. It didn't run well when it wasn't controlling the timing but maybe that'll at least kill one possible bug.

I think that the hand held programmer is working ok. The system seems to act about the same when connected to my PC via a USB cable.

I guess when it is all said and done i just don't have the time or more importantly the interest to really geek out and become an expert on this system. I just want it to run well.

Right now I don't think that this system is quite as bad as the Electro-motive but I haven't spent near as much time trying to get it to work yet either.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 29, 2020 4:05 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 12, 2017 8:33 am
Posts: 12
Looking at the video link you posted which had similar symptoms, it does look like an RFI or EMI issue. If it was the intake etc, you would not get the handheld going nuts like that. It seems routing of O2 wires, ignition wires or unused wires could pick up noise.
It also could be a noisy 12v, is it possible to disconnect your battery charger and run direct from a battery?
Did you hear back from Holley?
This link has a number of ideas from a Holley dealer who regularly posts in the Holley forums and does remote tunes /support.
https://www.efisystempro.com/efi-pro-hangout/holley-sniper-efi-instruction/solving-sniper-rfi-problems


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 30, 2020 11:00 am 
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When I did finally talk to somebody at Holley they said that the rebooting problem could happen because the pink wire is seeing less than 12 volts so I checked this both with and without running the battery charger and it always stayed at about 12.5 volts or higher.

I have run it without the charger and with it and it seems to make no difference. I've been powering the charger through a variac so that I can keep the system voltage steady right at 13 volts.

I checked out those EMI tips too.

When I ran the system while hooked to the PC I had a trace going and I didn't see any spikes. I'm planning to run it again on Sunday and try a few things.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 02, 2020 1:44 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2012 1:52 pm
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We have some beautiful weather here today so I thought I'd spend some more time on the Sniper. I did manage to change the static set point on the timing to 38 degrees which is more than I'll ever have in the engine. This cured the duck shooting problems. Now it will sort of idle at about 980 RPM but it isn't really solid. Running at light throttle all the way up to say 75 horsepower at 3000rpm seems to be pretty good. Since the spark problem seemed to be cured I thought I'd try a little WOT..... When I get close to wide open it just falls apart... seems to get super rich so I thought I'd adjust those blocks on the fuel map all at once. That made the software crash and no longer communicate. I think I've had enough of the Holley Sniper.


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